For some restaurants, whether old or new, the reason for the season is not just to celebrate with food and drink — it’s to go wild over holiday decor. In this miniseries, we highlight the spots across the country for whom extra doesn’t begin to cover it when it comes to lights, tinsel, and Christmas spirit. First up: Craftsman Row Saloon in Philadelphia.
For anyone who wants to quickly get into the holiday spirit, Craftsman Row Saloon during this time of year is an instant boost. Unapologetically Christmas and unforgettably festive, this downtown Philadelphia saloon’s Holiday Wonderland Christmas Pop-Up looks like a scene from How the Grinch Stole Christmas — the walls are draped with colorful ornaments, piney wreaths, shiny wrapping paper, and bright tree lights. According to brother/sister owner duo George Tsiouris and Vasiliki Tsiouris Balis, this year they’ve added 3,000 more lights, 500 more Christmas tree ornaments, 20 more Christmas trees, 1,000 more hanging ornaments, 300 more feet of fabric, 500 more feet of garland — and more elves on shelves.
Here, the bar menu matches the bold and eccentric decor: Expect gingerbread margaritas with spiced rims and a massive “All I Want for Christmas” eggnog milkshake that feels like you’re drinking an edible stocking stuffer. The food is equally adventurous, with a dynamic menu that includes a Christmas Dinner Burger that has patties topped with stuffing, cranberry sauce, and sweet potato fries (because such a flavor trio couldn’t be more iconic). When I first checked out Craftsman Row Saloon during the pandemic, I thought it was simply a marketing spectacle that was going to be a boom-and-bust. Years later, it’s arguably one of the most charming things that I look forward to as the weather gets colder. Perhaps it’s the sheer audacity to outlandishly promote joy during a time when so many people need it right now that makes it feel more than just another loud Christmas bar — but a symbol of being happy out loud during the holidays.
Caean Couto is a Brazilian-American photographer and photo editor based in Philadelphia.
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