Coach Hones In On New York Nineties Skate Culture For Fall Winter 2025

Stuart Vevers is a consummate English man in New York. His career that has led him in and out of European luxury houses (Mulberry and Loewe, among others) began here in the Nineties when he worked for Calvin Klein straight out of ‘uni’ in England and back to New York for Coach, where he has held the reins as Executive Creative Director since 2013.

The time spent in NYC in his early 20s is emblazoned on his psyche, and he looks to reference that time and again. For his Fall Winter 2025 collection, he thought of iconic skaters, though this time more so through the lens of Larry Clark’s seminal Kids movie. While by the 90s, thrifting was a time-honored tradition of youth, today’s upcycling and remaking of garments, which is central to Coach’s ethos today, allows the collections to have that sort of lived-in bygone look that one associates with clothes seen on adolescents running around New York.

Setting the tone for the show, the brand covered the walls of the Park Avenue Armory in set fabric mimicking the empty warehouse look like those that used to dot the West Side Highway before it became a leisure and entertainment destination. A harkening back to the pre-hyper developed NYC.

This time, Vevers favored the oversized skater pants with worn-effect baby Tees and hoodies, plenty of great outerwear (something Vevers defined as Coach DNA when he launched a clothing collection) such as cropped and shrunken bomber jackets, some made from repurposed garments, as well as floor-dusting trench coats in shearling and leather, duffle coats, peacoats and a faux leopard fur coat. A tender moment was in the relaxed 1920s-day dress-inspired styles in shift, tank, and drop-pleated styles, plus a selection of dresses made from vintage negligees and beaded gowns. Denim was also repurposed from old styles. Novelty touches to the collection included leopard print, metallic knits, and beading.

Of course, the real news and meat of the Tapestry-umbrella brand is the accessories. This season debuts the Twin Pocket Bag, inspired by a Coach archive piece from 1968. The collection also featured the return of the Brooklyn and Empire bags, plus the debut of the Soho sneaker. Both categories featured upcycled skins from the Loved Leather collection.

Stuffed animal slippers with playful inspiration, as well as block-heeled loafers, a buckle boot, and kitten-heel sandals, completed the offering. Jewelry was drawn from the toolbox—think screwdrivers and wingnuts, personalized nameplate necklaces, and brightly neon-colored statement sunglasses worn over the hairline like all the cool kids do.

Post-show Vevers spoke to reporters about his thoughts on understanding Gen Z, which has been a boon to the brand lately. “I understand self-expression is important to them, being who they want to be. It’s listening to this generation; of course, it’s my take on what I am hearing and then using my references, following your instincts,” he explained his mood board for the season reflected his experience when he first arrived. “There was a wide-eyed innocence partly because of the times but because of me; it was new and fresh. The inspiration was New York street style from the 90s, interiors like the warehouse set, and Larry Clark Kids.

But American youth culture of the 50s, 60s, 70s, and 90s is so powerful to look at it from the lens of today.While Gen Z may be his current target, it’s clear Vevers has his eye on Gen Alpha. The designer has two young children with his husband Benjamin Seidler, one of who was being held in Vever’s arms while giving the interview. The show featured plush toys as décor and trinkets, something that he looked to his kids for inspiration. “I see how comforting and happy it makes them,” he offered. Kids of all ages could use some of that right about now.