The Blue Weber species of agave is at the heart of every bottle of tequila. The plant takes years to mature before it can be made into tequila. Like wine, the environment in which the agave is grown affects a tequila’s flavor.
The vast majority of tequila is produced in the Mexican state of Jalisco, which is divided into two major producing regions: the highlands (Los Altos) and the Tequila Valley (El Valle), sometimes referred to in English as the lowlands.
“The distance between the two regions is [about 120 miles], or roughly a three-hour drive by car,” says Alberto Navarro, CEO and maestro tequilero of Loco Tequila. “While relatively close in proximity, the two areas differ notably in elevation, soil composition, and climate, all of which significantly influence the characteristics of the tequilas produced there.”
“Knowing the differences between highland and lowland tequilas can help you decide what you like, based on your preferences,” says Prairie Rose, senior drinks editor at Food & Wine. “Tasting the two side by side is a great way to expand one’s palate, deepen your appreciation for the diverse flavors of tequila, and to truly understand these differences.”
At this weekend’s Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Rose will host a seminar that highlights some of the best available tequilas.
Soil type
One of the most pronounced differences between the two major agave-producing regions is the soil. The difference in mineral content is so stark that each region’s soils are visibly different.
Even between agave fields within the same region, there are noticeable differences in the rockiness and coarseness of the soil. Just like with vineyards that grow the same varietal grape, the soil affects how the agaves grow and the flavors of the finished tequila.
“The soil in Los Altos de Jalisco varies, but the most typical Jaliscan highland soil is mineral-rich and contains high contents of iron and clay,” says Jesse Estes, global brand ambassador for the terroir-focused Tequila Ocho. “The result is a beautiful dark red, orange, rust-colored earth.”
There are major geological differences between the regions despite their relative proximity. “The Valley features grey-ochre, volcanic soil with higher pH, a result of a volcano that erupted 200,000 years ago,” says David Alan, director of trade education and mixology at Patrón.
Climate and elevation
Both the Tequila Valley and Los Altos experience a semi-dry, temperate climate. However, differences in temperature and precipitation patterns between the regions create unique microclimates.
Most agave fields in Jalisco aren’t irrigated, so precipitation has a major impact on how the plants grow. During the rainy season, the agaves absorb more water, which decreases the amount of fermentable sugars in the plants.
“The rainy season typically begins in late May and continues through early October, with July and August marking the wettest months of the year,” says Navarro. “Annual rainfall averages between 36 and 37 inches, with El Valle generally receiving slightly more precipitation than Los Altos.”
The difference in elevation between the two regions also leads to changes in temperature.
“These cold nights and big variations in temperature every 24 hours tend to stress the plants, which in turn creates a higher concentration of sugar on average, compared to agaves grown in the Tequila Valley,” says Estes. “In comparison, temperatures in the Valley remain fairly warm at night, with minimal fluctuations in temperature between day to night.”
Differences in flavor
How do these environmental differences affect the taste of tequilas from El Valle and Los Altos? Enough for each region to have its own, widely accepted general flavor and aromatic profile.
Tequilas made from agaves grown in Los Altos are known for their sweeter, more inviting flavor notes.
“Expressions from this area typically offer floral, citrus-driven, and fruity aromas, with notes of cooked agave, tropical fruit, and bright citrus on the nose,” says Navarro. “On the palate, they’re usually smooth and slightly sweet, with flavors of stone fruits, subtle floral notes, and a hint of gentle spice.”
In contrast, tequilas from the valley tend to be mineral-driven and possess a savory flavor profile. “Most experts agree that Valley-grown agaves tend to produce a tequila that is more robust, vegetal, peppery, spicy, and earthy,” says Estes.
These generalizations can serve as a good rule of thumb, but remember that tequila rules are sometimes meant to be broken.
“Just because a distillery is physically located in the highlands or valleys doesn’t necessarily mean their tequila will represent those traditional regional styles,” says Alan. “Many producers source agaves from across tequila’s Denomination of Origin, and it’s not uncommon for a tequila produced in one region to exhibit characteristics of another, or even a combination of both.”
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