Summer is synonymous with outdoor cooking — warm weather calls for firing up the grill for burgers and hot dogs. But your grill is also an ideal tool for an often-overlooked use: cold smoking. It’s the technique to lean on when you want to impart a delectably smoky finish to otherwise ready-to-eat ingredients, such as a side of cured salmon, a delicate ball of burrata, or even fresh fruit, without altering the texture.
What is cold smoking?
Cold smoking is a technique used to add a distinctive smoky flavor to food without actually cooking it. Cold smoking, when used in conjunction with curing or drying, such as the case with smoked sausage, helps to preserve food longer. Records indicate that cold smoking dates back to the 19th century in Northern Europe.
The difference between hot smoking and cold smoking
Unlike hot smoking, which imbues ingredients with smoke as they cook, cold smoking adds a smoky, sweet fragrance without the addition of heat. Most hot-smoked foods, such as brisket, pork butt, ribs, and turkey, are cooked low and slow, at a temperature range of 200°F to 275°F. The resulting food is extremely tender with a touch of smoky flavor. Cold smoking adds a similar smoky flair, but doesn’t cook the ingredient or alter its texture.
What temperature is best for cold smoking?
Temperature control is key to cold smoking. In order to prevent fish from overcooking or turning flaky, cheese from melting, and fruit from becoming mealy, the temperature must remain below 86°F.
What wood is best for cold smoking?
The type of wood depends on personal preference. Fruit woods, such as cherry and apple, add a subtle sweetness and delicate smoke flavor. These lighter flavors work well with mild foods, like fruit and fish, as the smoke flavor won’t overpower the ingredient. Other hardwoods, such as hickory and mesquite, impart a robust smoke flavor and are often best used for hot smoking meats like brisket and pork butt. For cold smoking, opt for wood pellets rather than wood chips or chunks, because they’re less likely to ignite and will smolder at a controlled pace for hours of steady smoke.
How to transform your grill into a cold smoker
Any charcoal or gas grill can function as a cold smoker. Place a maze pellet smoker or perforated foil tray on one side of the grill grates. Fill the maze or tray with wood smoking pellets. Light the pellets on both ends of the maze or tray using a kitchen torch or stick lighter. Open the top and bottom grill vents halfway. Cover the grill with a lid, and allow it to fill with smoke for about 15 minutes.
Next, fill a 13- x 9-inch baking pan about three-fourths full with ice cubes. Place a wire rack with the food you would like to cold smoke over the ice-filled baking pan. Transfer the baking pan to the grill, and cover it, with lid vents positioned over the pan. Smoke the food, discarding water in the baking pan and replacing with additional ice cubes as needed, until it has the desired level of smoke flavor.
Food & Wine / Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Dickey / Prop Styling by Christina Daley
Do you need any special equipment?
While it’s not strictly necessary, we recommend investing in a perforated stainless steel maze smoker — its labyrinthine design provides ample oxygen to keep wood pellets smoldering for hours. However, if you don’t have a maze smoker, a homemade boat-shaped aluminum foil tray will also get the job done.
A maze pellet smoker, such as the A-Maze-N, and wood smoking pellets are available at most hardware stores or online. The Sondiko Butane Torch is a handy tool that provides a steady flame to quickly light smoking pellets. It’s also great for toasting meringue and caramelizing crème brûlée.
How to cold smoke salmon
To make cold-smoked salmon, begin by curing the fish in salt and brown sugar. This step helps draw out moisture and gives the salmon its silky texture and translucent appearance. After curing, thoroughly rinse off the salt mixture and soak the fish in water for 15 minutes to remove any excess salt. Refrigerate the salmon uncovered to form a pellicle, which is the thin, dry layer that helps the smoke adhere to the surface. From here, simply set up your grill for cold smoking as described above, placing the salmon over a pan of ice cubes. Smoke the salmon for three hours for a mild smoky flavor or four hours for a more intense smoke flavor. Wrap salmon tightly in plastic wrap; chill at least four hours before slicing.
King salmon is ideal for this technique thanks to its high fat content and thick fillets. King salmon fishing season is late spring through summer, but high-quality frozen king salmon is available year-round at lummiislandwild.com.
How to cold smoke cheese
Smoked cheeses are often considered a high-end delicacy and can cost quite a bit more than un-smoked cheeses. The beauty of cold smoking cheese yourself is that you can buy inexpensive grocery-store cheese and then add your desired level and flavor of smoke. The most popular cheeses to cold smoke include semi-firm ones like mozzarella, cheddar, and Gouda. Creamy burrata is also a prime candidate for cold smoking, as the soft mozzarella casing quickly absorbs the aromatic wood smoke and gives the exterior a light tan hue. Inside, the sweet, milky curds stay soft and spreadable — ideal for sandwiches and salads or for serving with fruit and crackers.
To cold smoke cheese, set up your grill for cold smoking as described above, placing the cheese over a pan of ice cubes. If the cheese block is large, cut it in half or smaller pieces to allow the smoke to penetrate more evenly. Cold smoke the cheese for two to four hours depending on your preferred level of smoke flavor.
When the smoking process is over, the cheese isn’t ready to eat just yet. Wrap the cheese tightly in plastic wrap or vacuum seal it, and refrigerate it for about three days to give the smoke time to fully permeate throughout. Just like smoked meats, the refrigeration process seems to enhance the smoky flavor.
What else can you cold smoke?
Other foods that pair well with a light smoky flavor but are too delicate to smoke at hot temperatures include chocolate, fruit, vegetables, and nuts. Try adding cold-smoked chocolate to mole sauce or add a savory edge to bourbon balls. Cold-smoked fruit, such as pineapple, can be blended into a refreshing tequila punch and cold smoked nuts are the perfect finishing touch to salads or savory granola. Cold smoking is a versatile cooking technique that takes every day dishes to the next level.
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