How to Manage Oily Skin, According to Experts
Having an oily skin type comes with its own share of challenges. There’s the sebum slick that shows up rudely about halfway through the morning, a heightened chance of dealing with pimples and breakouts, and pores that have no business showing off like that.
Finding the right skin care products—and knowing the best order to apply them—can help control oily skin so you have a more balanced complexion. Not sure where to start? We asked skin care pros for the lowdown on how to manage oily skin.
Use a pH Balanced Cleanser (and Don’t Over-Cleanse)
People with oily skin may find that washing their face both morning and evening is essential to keeping the slick at bay. However, you shouldn’t wash more than this—unless you’ve been sweating—and it’s best to reach for a pH-balanced gel cleanser.
“While washing oily skin is essential, over-cleansing can strip the skin of natural oils, triggering even more sebum production as the skin tries to compensate,” explains Ian Michael Crumm, celebrity esthetician and co-host of the Beauty Curious podcast. He adds that a pH-balanced cleanser cleans without disrupting your skin barrier, helping to control oil production while keeping skin hydrated.
Weave Retinol into Your Routine
Retinoids are beloved for their anti-aging prowess, but they also come in clutch for oily and acne-prone skin types. “Tretinoin or retinol can regulate the skin cells lining the pores and the surface to unclog them and prevent acne,” explains Catherine DiGiorgio, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston, Mass. “Preventing acne and clogged pores is the first step in having clear, less oily skin.”
You can use an over-the-counter retinol, or request a prescription retinoid from your dermatologist. Start off slowly, working up to daily usage as your skin adjusts.
Apply a Gel-Based Moisturizer Daily
It’s tempting to gloss over moisturizer when your skin’s already producing enough oil as is, but this is a big mistake.
“People with oily skin often avoid moisturizers thinking they’ll make the skin greasier. However, skipping hydration can lead to increased oil production,” Crumm warns. “Using a gel-based or water-based moisturizer provides lightweight hydration without clogging pores, keeping oil production in check.”
He recommends ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin that provide hydration without heaviness.
Try a Charcoal or Clay Mask
When things get really oily—or large pores become a bit too unruly—a charcoal or clay-based mask works like a charm. Applying once or twice a week can help zap excess oil, helping pores appear smaller and reducing breakouts. These masks can reduce shine and prevent clogged pores, helping your skin stay fresh and balanced without over-drying. Just make sure to not overdo it.
Add Niacinamide to Your Regimen
Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide is a powerful but gentle ingredient that promises all sorts of benefits. Crumm says that niacinamide can help reduce oil production while also strengthening the skin barrier and reducing inflammation.
“It also helps with pore size and smooths skin texture,” he notes. “Use a serum with 5% niacinamide concentration in the morning or evening after cleansing.”
Exfoliate With Enzymes Weekly
Exfoliating once or twice per week can help slough off dead skin cells that contribute to breakouts while also managing oily skin and large pores, DiGiorgio says. Enzymes are a gentle, natural type of chemical exfoliant. You can find them in cleansers, masks, or even toners and tonics. Dr. DiGiorgio stresses that this shouldn’t be a daily part of your regimen, but rather something you do occasionally to help with oiliness, large pores, and breakouts.
Don’t Write Off Oils
It may seem strange to apply oils on oily skin, but if your skin is overcompensating dryness and dehydration with an uptick on oil production then topical oils can help.
“Skin balancing oils like jojoba oil and hemp seed oil help keep your skin from appearing oily by regulating oil production,” explains Helen M. Torok, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of HH Science. “Since jojoba oil and hemp seed oil mimics your skin’s natural oil production, it balances your skin and eases acne. They do not build up on your skin, causing clogged pores and acne.”
Use a Lightweight Sunscreen
Heavy sunscreens aren’t exactly a joy to apply, but you don’t have to live that greasy life. Seek out lightweight options with a water or gel base that won’t weigh you down. You can even find products with a matte finish that helps further avoid adding extra shine. Look for sunscreens labeled “non-comedogenic,” which are designed to prevent clogged pores while protecting your skin from harmful UV rays.
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