Indian Gins Are Reclaiming the Spirit From its Colonial Roots

For decades, gin was an almost forgotten spirit in India, overshadowed by whiskey and rum. 

“Until 2017–18, gin was a nonexistent category in India,” says Sanjeev Banga, president of international business at Radico Khaitan Ltd., the parent company of Rampur Distillery. 

In recent years, however, gin has staged a remarkable comeback in the country, sparking a vibrant renaissance, driven by a new generation of distilleries infusing their products with indigenous flavors and innovative spirit. 

“Today, there are more than 30 brands of gin that have launched. This bodes very well for the category, and it is growing at an exponential rate, albeit on a small base,” says Banga. 

The Colonial roots of gin in India

This gin revival in India finds its roots in history. 

The British East India Company introduced gin in the early 1800s to cope with the country’s tropical climate and combat malaria. British troops stationed in India mixed gin with quinine, a bitter compound from the bark of the cinchona tree used to treat malaria, to create the iconic Gin & Tonic. This medicinal concoction provided relief from the disease and became a popular cocktail, even after the British Raj ended in the late 1940s. 

Until the 1990s, G&T was a favored refresher of the elite, enjoyed in upper-crust clubs, but didn’t really catch the fancy of the broader Indian audience.

India’s own gin renaissance

In recent years, there’s been a massive change in India’s gin culture. To truly embrace the drink, it was important for India to create a unique gin story that mirrors the local flavors and character. Modern Indian distilleries have risen to the occasion, adding their own take on the classic gin recipe with native botanicals like Himalayan juniper berries, Darjeeling green tea leaves, and Gondhoraj lebu (lemon) peels.

“While setting up Stranger & Sons, the team encountered numerous brands attempting to tell India’s story. However, none truly captured the essence of contemporary India — a nation that is both progressive yet deeply rooted in tradition,” says Dimi Lezinska, head of brand advocacy of the Goa-based Third Eye Distillery. 

“Our founders, Rahul Mehtra, Sakshi Saigal, and Vidur Gupta, saw an opportunity to fill this gap with our unique narrative of India, recognizing it in its present context, and telling its story from our lens,” says Lezinska.

Leading Indian gin brands

Nao Spirits spearheaded the Indian gin renaissance by launching Greater Than, India’s first-ever craft gin, in 2017. Building on this success, they introduced Hapusa, the world’s first Himalayan Dry Gin, which used juniper berries sourced from the Himalayas, in 2018. 

Since then, a wave of artisanal Indian brands has surged. 

In 2018, both Stranger & Sons Gin by Third Eye Distillery and Radico Khaitan’s Jaisalmer Gin launched, and are now available in the U.S. 

The Jin Jiji, an Indian dry gin brand by Peak Spirits, debuted in the international market in 2019 and is available in several cities across the U.S., Canada, and Europe. 

Spaceman Spirits Lab Pvt. Ltd. entered the Indian craft gin scene with its release of Saṃsāra Gin in 2020, and in the same year, Amrut Distilleries launched its first botanical-based craft gin called Amrut Nilgiris Indian Dry Gin. 

Malhar, a premium Indian craft gin from John Distilleries, was made available in India in 2022. 

Most of these gins are produced and distilled in Goa, a state on the southwestern coast of India.

India’s unique botanicals and distinct terroir

Indian gins stand out for their unique botanical profiles, curated from Indigenous spices such as cardamom, coriander, black pepper, turmeric, licorice, lemongrass, and ingredients like tea, rose petals, saffron, and ashwagandha. This combination creates complex and aromatic gins that offer a taste of India in every sip.

“Cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, fennel, and cardamom are common spices used in Malhar Classic [Dry Gin],” says Heemanshu Ashar, global brand ambassador of Goa-based Paul John Whisky. “Additionally, the Indian key lime, a prominent ingredient in Malhar Citrus [Gin], has been plucked from the very fabric of the country and provides a fresh and zesty note.”

Ashar underscores the importance of using local ingredients in Indian gins. 

“These botanicals capture the essence of India in each bottle, offering a unique and memorable taste that reflects the rich culinary heritage and natural bounty of the region,” he says. “This infusion of Indian terroir sets India-made gins apart from others, providing a distinct sensory experience that transports the drinker from the land of spices to various corners of the world.”

Lezinska and Banga both say that honoring India’s culinary heritage has also been a big part of their approach to developing their Indian gin brands.

“A spice box is a staple in almost every Indian kitchen, reflecting centuries of mastering spices to create flavors in food, drinks, sweets, and scents,” says Lezinska. “The botanicals used by Stranger & Sons draw inspiration from these Indian kitchens, leveraging the robust nature and high essential oil content of Indian spices.” 

Banga adds, “The use of herbs has been an ancient tradition in India and we have incorporated this knowledge into our gin-making process.”

These gin-makers are in the unusual position of being able to source most of their botanicals within their own country.

“Of the 11 botanicals used in Jaisalmer Classic, seven are sourced from four corners of India, including Darjeeling green tea leaves that are produced only in Eastern India,” says Banga. “In the Gold Edition, there are 18 botanicals and the additional seven are all from India as well, including saffron.”

Lezinska points to India’s distinct terroir and environmental factors that can also influence the gin’s flavors, helping to set it apart from its traditional counterparts. 

“India’s unique climatic conditions, along with variations in soil, storage, humidity, and dryness, significantly impact flavor, resulting in botanicals from different regions and countries having distinct tastes,” he says. 

Integrating Indian innovation in gin and cocktails

Indian distilleries are also exploring several innovative approaches and experimental techniques to push the boundaries of Indian gins. 

For instance, John Distilleries, known for their classic and contemporary styles of gin, are now delving into crafting jenever-style gins using malted barley. 

“This approach adds a unique twist to the traditional gin-making process, bringing a rich and robust flavor profile to the spirit,” says Ashar. “We are also experimenting with cask aging and maturing gin with the aim of adding additional complexity and depth, creating a distinctive product that stands out in the market.”

Meanwhile, Third Eye Distillery combines traditional Indian techniques with a modern approach. Their award-winning cocktail program, featuring Gibsons and Gimlets, draws inspiration from India’s rich heritage of pickling and making cordials. 

“Our Gibsons are crafted using the age-old pickling techniques, like our Pickler’s Prescription (a Gibson variation) with pickled apricot,” says Lezinska. “We integrate the nuances of our country into everything we do. Our signature Strange G&T uses a sliver of ginger as a garnish, an ingredient most commonly used in Indian households, and easily available for most people, opens up and accentuates the flavors of our gin.” 

Global expansion

The American gin market is witnessing a notable influx of Indian brands, each bringing unique flavors and stories to the table.

“Jaisalmer Classic Gin is available in the U.S. and we will soon be launching the Jaisalmer Gin Gold Edition in the U.S. market,” says Banga. “The Gold Edition in 50cl is available in Canada, but due to regulatory requirements wherein 50cl is not an approved SKU in the U.S., we will be launching the 1-liter pack soon.”

Lezinska says their brand is also penetrating the U.S. market. “Our signature Stranger & Sons Gin is available in the U.S. in Florida, New York and New Jersey and currently. We will be focusing on developing our presence in these states before expanding to new states.” 

Ashar is enthusiastic about their imminent U.S. launch. “We are preparing to launch our Malhar Indian Craft Gin with two variants: Classic and Citrus, [both] at 86 proof.”

As more India-made gins make their mark in the U.S., these spirits are poised to captivate gin enthusiasts.

“As a deep advocate for the category of gin, we are always exploring new expressions and trends,” says Natasha Bahrami, owner of The Gin Room in St. Louis, Missouri. “Gins from India are multiplying exponentially and it has been wonderful to see the gins embrace the native botanicals and botanicals used in the culture and cuisine manifested into the gins,” adding that some recent favorites are, “Amrut Nilgiris gin, Jaisalmer gin, and Hapusa.”

While winning fans overseas, these spirits are also enjoying a buzz at home. Even though Indian consumers typically prefer brown spirits, the emergence of high-quality spirits from local distillers, coupled with a growing love for cocktails and a penchant for trying new flavors, is boosting the domestic demand for gin. In 2024 alone, gin segment revenue amounted to $1.7 billion with an anticipated annual growth rate of 3.86% (CAGR 2024-2029).

“As more and more consumers realize the versatility of gin as a cocktail base or simple G&T,  especially considering the hot India weather, it is bound to grow over the coming years,” says Banga.

The gin market landscape continues to develop globally.

“The gin industry is now evolving into a price ladder, progressing from economy compound gins to masstige (mass and prestige), craft gin and luxury craft gins,” says Ashar. “All are small niche segments but an interesting time to see which of these niches will build on further.”

Global recognition of India-made gins

Indian gins have earned significant acclaim on the global stage. Brands like Jaisalmer Gin, Greater Than, and Stranger & Sons have earned numerous awards across various categories in international competitions.

“When Stranger & Sons Gin was declared as one of the top 8 gins in the world with a Gold Outstanding Medal at IWSC 2020, we were assured that we were on the right path to place premium spirits from India on the global map,” says Lezinska. 

“The growing popularity of Indian gins globally is a testament to the acceptance of our gins,” says Banga. “Also, the awards and accolades being showered on Indian gins by experts and juries is an acknowledgment of global recognition.”

Banga also adds that when bartenders advocate for your gin, “they can create wonders and offer amazing cocktails to their patrons.”

Ashar says there is still a lot of growth to be had. “It’s just the beginning and we are scratching the surface, as India has a unique history with Gin & Tonic,” he says. “Indian gins overseas are still very exotic and super niche.”

Challenges in the global market and navigating them

Despite a promising future, Indian gin producers face several challenges. 

“Initially, we encountered the challenge of changing the perception in people’s minds of Indian spirits and how the Indian market has been perceived in the past,” says Lezinska. “India was always known to be a mass producer of dark spirits, which is something that we gradually overcame.”

Some of their approach to changing perceptions and getting liquid-to-lips has been in-person tastings and experiences.

“We back our liquid with phenomenally curated experiences across regions where we are available, where consumer interactions and tastings, word of mouth, and trade and off-trade listings help us break into the markets,” says Lezinska.

Working with other spirits internationally has helped get their Indian gins to market. 

“Having brands available in over 100 countries, we are quite accustomed to working with local regulations,” says Banga. “The consumers are always looking for authenticity and a story to create an emotional bond with the brand. Our vision is very clear in terms of sharing the mysticism and uniqueness of India with the world. Our focus is on tasting and educating the consumers of this Indianness, liquid to lips and from there to the heart. All our marketing efforts are directed towards attaining this objective only,” he says.

One of the biggest challenges for the U.S. market has been getting TTB approval for unfamiliar ingredients and labeling. 

“Registration has been a challenge as certain Indian botanicals and spices are unfamiliar to the West but have been in our culinary landscape for centuries,” says Ashar. “However, we have been successful in registration with Malhar Indian Craft Gin with minor label and recipe modifications.”

The future of India-made gins

As India continues to innovate and redefine its gin-making traditions, the future looks bright for this burgeoning industry. Whether you’re a connoisseur seeking new flavors or a casual enthusiast curious about the intersection of history and modernity in a glass, India’s gin renaissance promises something for everyone to savor and celebrate.

“Post-pandemic, a trend that has been common across the globe is that consumers are drinking less but better,” says Banga. “We are very excited about the future of gin in India.”  

Lezinska agrees. “We are seeing consumers being open to trying innovative expressions and stepping out of their comfort zones, experimenting with their choices which has encouraged spirit brands to push boundaries and thus there is also a rise in small-batch craft spirits.”

Looking ahead, Ashar predicts that the Indian drinks brands will offer even more. “Micro-segments will grow and newer offerings like gin liqueur, ready-to-drink formats, aged gin, foraged botanicals, [and] zero alcohol gins [will] be in the forefront of gin-novation.”

“No party in India is complete without gin on the bar.” says Banga. These gin-makers are banking on the rest of the world sharing that sentiment, with the hope that their next gin is an Indian-made one.

Must-try Indian gins

Stranger & Sons

This is a modern gin, with a citrus-forward palate, balanced with notes of juniper, licorice, and a mix of spices like pepper, mace, cassia and nutmeg. It’s perfect for a Gin & Tonic and a wildly refreshing highball.

Jaisalmer Classic Gin

This triple-distilled neutral grain spirit opens with the refreshing zest of lemongrass, evolves into the nuanced herbal tones of Darjeeling green tea, and finishes with a delightful hint of cubeb pepper. It’s got everything you want in a bottle of gin: spicy, balanced, and effortlessly versatile in cocktails, for a serious Martini or to savor neat.

Hapusa Himalayan Dry Gin

With Gondhoraj lime lending it brightness, turmeric and raw mango adding earthy notes, and Himalayan juniper providing a distinctive piney base, this makes an excellent Gin & Tonic or can be enjoyed on its own.

Amrut Nilgiris Dry Gin

Floral and delicate, this gin, named after the Nilgiri Hills, features a pronounced Nilgiri tea aroma that blends seamlessly with herbal undertones of coriander and angelica root, culminating in a smooth, refined finish ideal for both cocktails and classic G&Ts.

Malhar Classic Dry Gin

Enjoyed neat, in a G&T, or mixed into cocktails like a Martini or Negroni, this gin has notes of citrus, juniper, and a medley of Indian herbs and spices, with a lingering sweet and earthy character.