Review: The Stylish New Wine Fridge from Eric Wareheim

Does the world need another luxury wine fridge? Maybe not. But it also never asked for fabregé eggs, and those are also pretty cool. So when Eater staff caught wind of a new wine fridge collaboration from Rocco (think, the Audi of wine fridge brands) and Las Jaras (the wine company of Joel Burt and comedian Eric Wareheim), we were eager to unpack the specs. Before that, of course, we watched the fridge’s official ad:

Once upon a time, I was an Adult Swim-obsessed high schooler. I’m absolutely here for non-boring product launch ads. As brand strategist Eugene Healey explained in a recent TikTok, we’re moving through a post-minimalism, post-core marketing period in which absurdist ploys and brand remixes feel not only more eye-catching, but more culturally relevant than the buttoned-up, homogenous brand identities of yesteryear; the slicked back bun allure of Glossier has been dethroned by the chaos energy of, say, the Michael Cera CeraVe ad (also partially directed by Wareheim, by the way). It’s 2024, so of course I’m being pitched a luxury wine fridge through a Tim and Eric-esque song on a Thursday. And boy, what a fridge:

Rocco’s “Super Smart Fridge” is, according to its website, equipped to stock “27 Bordeaux bottles, 88 cans, or a variety of both,” and it includes all kinds of wine nerd bells whistles, including dual temperature zones (which you can control with an app that even let’s you see inside the fridge, should you choose), UV-reeded glass to keep out light (and hide your off-brand La Croix seltzers), extension racks, free coasters, and a hearty 10 year warranty. Plus, your purchase comes with six bottles of Las Jaras wine (valued at $350) and six of its canned wines (valued at $59).

Unlike the rest of Rocco’s wine fridges, the Las Jaras collab also comes in a new, creamy colorway and is outfitted with gold-colored hardware. Most importantly (to me), it doesn’t look like it would make my living room look like a 2004 TLC reality show “man cave.” Instead, I think it sure would look great next to my non-existent Togo sofa.

Still, the $1,495 price tag hurts — especially given that there are plenty of great (albeit, not as beautiful) wine fridges online for under $200. Wareheim’s winery, Las Jaras, has also successfully positioned itself over the years as an affordable option for folks looking to spend $24 on a Beaujolais-inspired wine, or people who appreciate an under-$30 glou-glou designed specifically with burger and pizza pairings in mind. It would have been nice to feel more of that laid-back spirit via more accessible pricing (and not just in song), but who knows — maybe a De Cecco x Spagett! collaboration is on the horizon, or maybe a secret admirer will in fact gift me this wine fridge that costs more than my rent. After all, more absurd things have happened in 2024.