Rolands Varsbergs
The new Nordic kitchen has dominated the dining scene in the Danish capital for decades, ever since world-renowned restaurant Noma first opened. Today, you’ll find products from Noma Projects across the city’s restaurants (and locals’ homes) and vets of the restaurant’s kitchen (and those of sister establishments) among the scene’s notable stars. Other chefs of that influential generation still hold sway too; Bobe by chef Bo Bech (of the famed, now-closed Geist) has been on the lips of many local diners this year.
After two decades of new Nordic, though, as Noma gets set to close at the end of 2024, what was once new is now standard. Chefs and diners are looking forward. While Bobe represents a comeback hit for Bech, it also encapsulates a new interest among the city’s mid-range restaurants in shared plates. Chefs of all stripes are also constantly digging for deeper, punchier flavors in excellent local produce and looking to global cuisines like Japanese, Korean, and Mexican. Most recently, the city has seen a number of Italian openings, including Mirabelle Spisería in Nørrebro, where Christian Puglisi (formerly of Relae) celebrates his Sicilian culinary heritage.
With plenty of classic places to try specialties like smørrebrød and hot dogs, along with a constant deluge of excellent eating and drinking experiences, Copenhagen remains one of Europe’s ultimate food hot spots.
Anna Norström is a Swedish-born award-winning journalist, moderator, and speaker. Her stories are mainly focused around the food and beverage world, from serious investigative pieces on sexism in kitchens to restaurant reviews and travel guides.
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