The notification ding on my phone signifies the text I’ve been waiting for all day has arrived, but the suspense is still building. My cousin and I just deboarded a few-hour cruise in the frigid waters surrounding Twillingate, Newfoundland, where we circled massive icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Now, we are bound for the coordinates I just received, detailing our meet-up point with the chef and the rest of our group for a secret sea-to-plate dinner in a surprise location put on by Wild Island Kitchen, and I couldn’t be more excited.
The small coastal town of Twillingate is known for being Iceberg Alley’s main hub, where, every summer, ancient chunks of glacial ice appear for their annual dazzling display. Some are so close you can see them from town while you sip your morning coffee. In addition to the icebergs, it’s also known for incredible whale-watching and fresh seafood, a trifecta you might be lucky enough to score while dining alfresco with Wild Island Kitchen.
I’m typically a planner but was more than happy to relinquish control for this experience, the element of surprise reminiscent of childhood days in the pages of a choose-your-own-adventure book. We park in front of a vibrant spectrum of fishing sheds and spot a man with a sizable mustache waving just ahead. He’s standing with our two dinner-date companions, a lovely couple celebrating their anniversary. Our chef and culinary guide for the three-hour meal is Austin Silva, who specializes in open-fire cookery. He leads us along an easy path fringed by lanky dune grass to our secret seaside destination where the kitchen and dining area sit ready for us in a real-life postcard.
The scene is out of a movie: a pot perched in waiting next to the fire area and our table set with no details spared down to the cloth napkins and floral arrangements, plus another couple of tables for prep and drinks. Water calmly laps the shoreline of the idyllic cove as the crackling of the fire fills the silence that inevitably comes with awe. We enjoy drinks and conversation with the other guests on blankets in the sand while the first course is prepared. Perfectly cooked scallops kick things off, with fish cakes made from salt cod sourced from the local fish market, paired with the mustard pickle that’s up next.
“My mom used to make these, so it’s always a little bit of nostalgia for me,” Austin shares while we watch him effortlessly flip the fish cake. The combination of flavors — salty and tangy with the crisped exterior and soft inside — is like a comfort food celebration in my mouth. I hadn’t realized you can feel nostalgic while eating something you’ve never had before, until now.
Watching each course prepared over the fire is incredible but what truly brings the experience up a notch (or three), is learning about each dish and its ties to Newfoundland’s culture and culinary heritage, all of which have the ocean at heart. The aroma of the saltwater, fire, and delicious food are natural mood boosters. We sample another classic Newfoundland dish while lobsters boil: brined mussels in vinegar and capers. “This is how we preserve them for the winter,” Austin explains. The lobsters hiss from the pot as he fire-roasts bright red peppers and prepares our salads crafted from locally foraged goods. This menu is anything but rustic; it’s gourmet without feeling stuffy, and quintessentially Newfoundland at its core. The lineup changes with the seasons and the tides, with authenticity and sustainability at the helm.
“We feature wild, sustainable, and high-quality seafood. Each course is prepared to represent pieces of our past while embracing our culinary future,” says Crystal Anstey, Wild Island Kitchen owner and adventure chef.
We sit for dinner with our new friends, clinking glasses to toast this shared experience as the sun starts to set and the air develops a slight but satisfying crisp. The lobster, of course, does not disappoint, but we have one more treat in store. Dessert is a beaut and almost too pretty to eat…almost. It’s topped with a creamy and very Newfoundland ingredient in it, but some things should be left as a surprise for when you experience this culinary adventure for the five senses firsthand.
With only 24 hours to spend in Twillingate, this is the deep dive into Newfoundland I’d hoped for; this sea-to-plate meal will live rent-free in my head for years to come.
If you go
Slumber at the Sunshine Inn, venture up to the Longpoint Lighthouse to spot icebergs, and get out on the water with Iceberg Quest to get up close and personal with the natural wonder.
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