How to Tell If Your Damaged Hair Needs Protein or Moisture

Nailing down a hair routine can feel a bit like solving a mystery. If your hair’s been feeling stiff, lackluster, and brittle, there’s no doubt your strands are crying out for some TLC, but trying to figure out whether damaged hair needs protein versus moisture requires just a bit more beauty detective work. What better way to crack the case than by enlisting some hair care experts? We’re diving into everything you need to know ahead. 

How Can You Tell if Your Hair Needs Protein? 

Clear signs your hair needs protein is if it looks or feels limp, is stretchy like spaghetti, has a gummy consistency, breaks off easily, or doesn’t hold dye. In this case, you should reach for a protein-infused conditioning product, says Sophia Emmanuel, a trichologist and brand ambassador for V&Co. Beauty. She adds that this is most common for people who have chemically-treated hair—including dyeing, bleaching, straightening, or perming—and those who do a lot of heat styling. 

How Protein Benefits Hair 

Different types of protein, such as wheat, keratin, silk, and peptides, can help repair damaged hair. Emmanuel says, “Protein helps fortify your hair; it strengthens the structure of hair by filling in gaps along the hair shaft caused by damage and can enhance elasticity.” 

What Happens if Hair Gets Too Much Protein 

While many protein-infused hair products are formulated in a way that protects hair from any potential damage, it’s still important to be wary of using too much protein. “This can lead to a condition called protein overload which will cause dryness and brittle hair, which leads to breakage and damage,” notes Emily Safran Wands, master stylist and owner of LAHH Salon in Bay Harbor, Fla. 

Emmanuel adds that this usually only happens with two-step protein treatments that harden with heat. “These treatments will cause hair breakage if you do not need them and should [only] be used after chemical services to strengthen your hair,” she says. 

How to Tell if Hair Just Needs Moisture 

The biggest sign that your hair needs moisture is if it feels and looks dry, says Marco Pelusi, a celebrity hairstylist, product formulator, and educator. It may also feel brittle or break off, but this is typically isolated toward the ends of your hair. Another sign is that it’s super staticky. 

“Honestly most hair needs moisture, unless you’ve got unusually oily hair,” Pelusi says.  “When you add moisturizing ingredients, you’re then able to do the basics [more easily, like combing through your hair and styling your hair.” That said, if your hair needs protein then it most likely also needs moisture, which means you can go ahead and use both.