Sushi In The Sky at The OWO

With its bare beech tables, low ceilings and simple wooden chairs, Kioku by Endo at The OWO’s low-key aesthetic could easily trick you into thinking you are eating in a simple inn in Japan. That is, except for the skyline. Found on the rooftop of Raffles at The OWO—London’s most grandiose hotel—as you tuck into silky sashimi, the city’s most famous landmarks are in view. Nelson’s Column, the London Eye, Buckingham Palace and Whitehall’s rooftops are all laid before you like a touristic sightseeing buffet. In the summer, on the outdoor rooftop terrace, it gets even more breathtaking.

The pared-back and intimate restaurant stands apart from the dazzling décor that is found across the rest of the hotel (what was once surely the most grandest government offices in the UK). The Old War Office-turned-hotel has at its heart a marble and alabaster Grand Staircase topped with a gigantic Venetian-made chandelier which has 96 lights and took over a year to make. It’s the first thing you see when you step inside.

Wander around The OWO (which was renovated at a cost of a whopping £1.4 billion) and you can easily be overwhelmed by the sheer opulence of the place: the mix of its rich history blended with modern hospitality is a sumptuous one. If you can’t afford to stretch to one of the bedrooms (which start at £1,000 per night to £25,000 per night for a suite), then you can still have your fill of The OWO’s new life at one of its nine dining spots.

Joining the likes of lauded chef Mauro Colagreco (who oversees the hotel’s signature eponymous restaurant), Kioku by Endo at The OWO is the latest offering in town by starry chef Endo Kazuthoshi. No stranger to London’s dining scene, he is best known for his Michelin-starred offering at Endo at the Rotunda, as well as two newly opened eateries, Niju in Mayfair and Sumi in Notting Hill.

Bringing a different spin to Japanese dining, Kioku by Endo is described as a ‘story of East meets West’, and is influenced by Mediterranean dishes. Sat in the 55-seat dimly-lit dining room, it seems to whisper rather than shout about its accolades. A series of small, sharing dishes bring a witty take on Japanese classics influenced by Spanish traditions. Yellowfin Tuna ‘Chorizo’ Paprika, for instance, is tuna aged like a serrano ham and is served with pita bread; while the Bluefin Tuna ‘Pastrami’ is served with sourdough and tomato, just like pieces of chorizo you’d tuck into in a pintxos bar.

“Kioku means ‘memory’ and it brings all the important memories that I have together in one place,” says Endo Kazutoshi. “The experiences and events I have encountered throughout my personal and professional journey are very important to me. It is a reflection of my life and the passion I developed throughout my travels in Yokohama, Tokyo and Spain, in particular. Moments that resonate with me have had a huge influence in what we bring to Kioku at The OWO.”

There are starters of yellowtail with aged caviar and a plump Chashu pork ravioli in tonkotsu broth that you want to eat all over again. The sashimi and sushi, of course, is standout and is an ode to Endo’s meteoric rise as a third-generation sushi master, following in the footsteps of both his grandfather and father.

Endo’s grandfather opened his own sushi restaurant in the 1940s, and Endo spent much of his childhood there. Endo’s mother, he says, opened his eyes to other creative and disciplined artforms, a path that he now attributes as the greatest influence on his practice of sushi making and style of omakase.

While working in one of Tokyo’s leading omakase restaurants for three years, his only role was to clean the fish and make tea. It was only when he moved to his next position, he realised how much he had learned from simply watching other chefs at work. He practiced traditional edomae style sushi-making for the next few years before joining highly respected sushi master Akitoshi Ohno at Narita, where he spent two years exploring contemporary interpretations of Japanese sushi mastery.

Overseen by executive chef, George Gkoregias, Kioku by Endo at The OWO brings this heritage of exceptional contemporary Japanese cuisine within the context of the historical setting of The OWO. “The restaurant draws on chef Endo Kazutoshi’s mastery of sushi and Japanese flavours, with a focus on using the finest ingredients available,” chef Gkoregias says. “Our approach is modern and innovative, while remaining deeply rooted in traditional techniques. What’s more, The OWO is filled with grandeur and history, making it an ideal setting for a Japanese dining experience that emphasises precision, refinement, so it aligns perfectly with the heritage and sophistication of the building.”

When it comes to highlights, chef Gkoregias suggests opting for the tasting menu. “Each course showcases a different aspect of chef Endo’s culinary philosophy, combining the freshest fish and ingredients with intricate technique. One dish I particularly love is smoked yellow tail and green apple ponzu.”

Other dishes of note include a meaty monkfish with smoked eel, potato rosti and ginger sauce and a succulent Robata cooked wagyu with Tokyo turnip and wasabi pomme puree. The ‘Introduction to Tuna’ menu is also worth choosing from. It includes the slicing of dry-aged tune tableside via a bespoke trolley—a nod to the reverence given to the fish in Japanese culture as well as to old-fashioned, European dining-room traditions.

“At Kioku, guests can expect a truly immersive dining experience,” says chef Gkoregias. “From the moment they step into the restaurant, they are transported into a space where every detail is carefully considered, from the ambiance to the service and, of course, the food itself.”

For a special occasion, there is a tiny eight-seat private dining room found within one of the building’s famous turrets, which has views over the city as well as into the kitchen. The 25-cover Kioku Bar, meanwhile, is ideal for post-meal sake tastings and is overseen by Sake Samurai Natsuki Kikuya. There’s also an inventive cocktail menu, with a concept that is modelled on traditional Japanese listening bars, with a bespoke record player, playing a mix of tracks selected by guests in the bar.

From the tartare and miso brioche appetizer to the dessert of twig tea crème brulée, the whole experience, from start to finish, at Kioku by Endo at The OWO brings pops of delight throughout your time there. “We think it resonates deeply with people in London,” says chef Gkoregias. “There is a growing appreciation for the balance and precision that defines Japanese dishes and with our focus on seasonality, freshness, and quality ingredients, we think our restaurant will capture the attention of the London food scene, particularly among those looking for both authenticity and innovation in their dining experiences.”

“Working under chef Endo has been an incredible learning experience,” he continues. “One of the most valuable lessons learned from him is the importance of patience and respect for ingredients. Chef Endo’s attention to detail is unparalleled, and he constantly reminds us that every ingredient, no matter how small, should be treated with care and respect. This dedication to perfection is something I strive to bring into my own approach to cooking and we reflect this in how we treat each customer.”