Food & Drink

6 Chef-Approved Wine and Food Pairing Tips

Need a good wine recommendation? If a restaurant doesn’t have a sommelier, the chef may be your next best bet. 

“Chefs and sommeliers are both very specific in the way they think about ingredients,” says Justin Pichetrungsi. A 2022 Food & Wine Best New Chef, he reimagined both the food menu and wine list at his parents’ long-running Los Angeles restaurant, Anajak Thai, in 2019. “I would say the best of both chefs and somms are nerdy, autodidactic people who dive deep into the origins or history of the products that they use. And we find a sense of pride in that knowledge.” 

At this weekend’s Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Pichetrungsi and 2013 F&W Best New Chef Chris Shepherd will face off against sommeliers to see who can craft the best food and wine pairings. Ahead of their seminar, we asked Pichetrungsi and Shepherd for chef-approved wine advice. 

Pair food with wine — not the other way around 

“Everyone says that you pair wine with food, but actually you can pair food with wine,” says Pichetrungsi. “And that is really where you can have a great time, because sometimes you do want to drink [a specific] wine.” Have your heart set on a bottle of Bordeaux? Ask your sommelier for menu recommendations that will complement it. 

Think regionally 

“When thinking about wine pairings, don’t overcomplicate it,” says Shepherd, a self-proclaimed “wine guy” who writes a monthly wine column for CultureMap Houston. “Think regionally. What makes sense based on where the food is from? Traditionally, what grows together goes together.”

“All you need is a basic understanding of the producers and styles you enjoy,” he adds. “Not every Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same — and the same goes for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and so on. Find regions and styles that resonate with you.” 

Serve barbecue with bubbles

“Texas barbecue is a challenge for a lot of people when it comes to what to drink,” says Shepherd. “The smoke and big meaty flavors might make you reach for a bottle of Zinfandel or Syrah, and you wouldn’t be wrong. But this is where I start thinking about the Texas trinity: brisket, ribs, and sausage. All are rich in texture — meaty, fatty, and smoky.”

His solution to those bold flavors?

“I lean toward an ice-cold bottle of Champagne,” says Shepherd. “It cuts through the richness, tones down the smoke, and does a fantastic job of clearing the palate, getting you ready for that next bite. Unorthodox? Yes. Delicious? Hell yes.”

Seafood and red wine? Go for it 

The idea that seafood can’t pair with red wine is too general, according to the chefs. “It really depends on what sauces you’re using, how [your dish] is seasoned, how fatty the fish or the seafood is, and the general body of the sauce,” says Pichetrungsi.

He suggests serving a flavorful crab curry, for example, with a Beaujolais or dry Lambrusco. “What’s fun, at least for me, with Thai cuisine, is the flavors are so varied throughout the meal that you can go in any direction you want.” 

Consider the ‘Champagne reset’

“The old ‘Champagne reset’ is one of the most beautiful things in hospitality that honestly I’ve only ever seen here at our restaurant,” says Pichetrungsi. The idea is to keep your palate lively by ordering (or serving) some bubbles before dessert. 

“When you finish the meal and the table gets reset, you just want to rinse your face off with Neutrogena,” says Pichetrungsi. “That’s what the Champagne reset is to me.” 

Don’t overlook dessert wine

“I really wish that people spent a little bit more time with dessert wine,” says Pichetrungsi. “It’s a great way to extend the experience [at a restaurant] and to have a conversation.”

One of his favorite pairings? Mango sticky rice and Madeira. “I like desserts with some savory, salty qualities. Because sticky rice has almost none of these, it’s nice to have them in the pairing,” he says. “[With] Madeira, there’s acid, there’s a little sweetness, there’s a little bit of saltiness, and there’s a little bit of earthiness.” 


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