Structured, Smooth Wines From The Bicoastal Cabardès Region Of France

A wine appellation is basically a chunk of geography that includes specific rules for making wine. Those who follow these rules can print the name of that appellation on their bottle labels—theoretically increasing sales. Or, paradoxically, sometimes not.

Vineyards located in the quarter-century old Cabardès appellation in southern France [pronounced cab-R-des] cover a region about one and a half times the size of Central Park in New York, within a geographical area ten times that size. Located an hour drive southeast of the city of Toulouse between the walled city of Carcassonne and the Black Mountains—Montagne Noir—local geography here includes a meld of landscapes from two sides of the country—Mediterranean (rocky scrub) and Atlantic (forests and meadows). A hot and sunny Mediterranean climate dominates, but cold dry winds known as cers originating from the Atlantic Ocean also influence grape growth.

Cabardès appellation rules apply to red and rosé wines. They must include grapes from the western, Atlantic side of France , as well as grapes from the eastern, Mediterranean side. Forty percent of grapes must originate from one, or a blend of the Atlantic selection (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot), and forty percent must come from one, or a blend of the Mediterranean choice (Grenache, Syrah). Additionally, juice from Cinsault, Cot (Malbec) and Fer grapes can be added.

According to Wendy Gedney in her book The Wines of Languedoc-Roussilon, the Cabardès region encompasses a varied landscape that transforms from sloping hills—similar to those of the adjacent Minervois wine appellation to the east—to rugged slopes at the foot of the Montagne Noir peaks.

Most soils here are known as argilo-calcaire, or clay limestone, though higher elevations also include slate and gneiss. High density planting results in low yields of grapes with concentrated flavors.

Cabardès red wines include a distinct taste—generally a hefty but creamy body. Cabernet Sauvignon can provide structure, Syrah gives dark flavored richness, Merlot donates roundness and Grenache can add juicy-fruity suppleness and spice. However, be wary of expectations—flavors differ from wines just the east (such as within the Minervois appellation) and may not be what you expect from this Languedoc-Roussillon region.

Although the appellation is young, Cabardès wines have a long history within France.

Romans began planting grapes here in the century before the Christian era.

The word Cabardès derives from the term Cabaret. This is because in the 11^th century the lords of Cabaret built castles above the town of Lastours. These leaders were adherents of Catharism—a form of Christianity practiced by vegetarian teetotaler adherents who rejected churches and crucifixes. Such behavior resulted in Pope Innocent III’s papal push to exterminate these heretics—leading to a slaughter of between a quarter and a million Cathars in the 13th century during the Albigensian crusade.

During one siege at this time, wrote Ryan O’Connell in his book Wines of Carcassonne, French Catholics tore out vines of their Cathar enemy. Another time, Cathars planted vines ‘near the enemy army, before their eyes and to their great regret.’

Though regional Cabardés wine production is modest, with just over two dozen wineries and three cooperatives creating output, some fosters a niche international appeal. During the Wine Paris exposition earlier this month I spoke with Camille Galy of Galy Vignerons, a Cabardès producer based in Moussoulens (a town known for truffles, which pair well with these wines). Their exports, Camille explained, “are present in niche markets in Brazil and Japan. Overseas exports also include to Tahiti, Guyana and Japan and to larger markets—particularly in Belgium.”

Tasting Notes of Various Cabardés Wines

Château Jouclary. Cuvée Guilhaume. Cabardés. AOP. 2021. 91 points.

A 45/45/10 blend of Merlot/Syrah/Grenache aged 12 months in new oak from the Gianesini family. Includes a full spectrum of rich ripe aromas that include black cherries, raspberries, almonds, beef bouillon. In the mouth this is a river of juicy light flavors with depth and character. Generous, acidic edges, flavors of orange and cranberry juices mid palate and some shortbread and menthol on the finish. Includes crisp acidity and supporting, but not howling, tannins.

Domaine de Cabrol. Vent D’Est. Cabardès. AOP. 2019. 90 points.

Named after the east wind, this 60/40 Syrah/Cabernet Franc blend is made from old vines facing east at 300 meters elevation within the Black Mountains. Slightly oaky and hefty aromas that include bramble and blackberries, some cocoa as well as dusty earth and pine. In the mouth this is a smooth river of black berries, oxo bullion, Dutch salted licorice and a hit of cocoa powder. Sleek acidity is well integrated with smooth tannins and the body is brimming with the power of Syrah. Slightly syrupy with molasses on the finish. Give this time in the glass to open up and pair with grilled duck breast or sirloin steak.

L’Immature. Cabardés. IGP. 2020. 93 points.

From the village of Aragon, fourth generation ‘dreaming winemaker’ Florent Rounet has created this blend of Syrah, Merlot, Marselan and Grenache from grapes that grow over limestone clay. Aromas of leather and licorice, and in the mouth a hefty and gentle juice with balanced tannins and flavors of maple syrup, ripe black berries and mocha mid palate. A festive wine. The winemaker writes: “For anyone in search of wisdom … I present this drink to you. Make good use of it.”

Domaine de Cazaban. Cabardès. 2020. 92 points.

50/30/20 blend of Syrah/Cabernet Franc/Merlot. Aromas of hickory, tar, morels, chocolate chips. Complex. Syrah provides richness and structure and the Merlot gives roundness. A chunky, chewy, full and hefty mouthful of fruit, firm tannins and suave acidity. Includes that Cabardés hefty edge, as well as a softness reminiscent of a Saint-Émilion wine from Bordeaux.

Domaine Galy 1907. Pech St Jean. Cabardès. AOP. 2022. 93 points.

A 45/30/20/5 blend of Syrah/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache. Gentle tannins but solid structure. Mid palate flavors of maple syrup and black licorice mid palate. A pleasant and fulfilling wine to serve with a main course.

Galy Vignerons. Le Clos des Natices. Cabardès. AOP. 2021. 94 points.

Black licorice aromas from this 60/40 Syrah/Cabernet Franc blend. A robust and dark mouthful of cocoa and chocolate cookie flavors with well structured tannins. Well integrated tannins and acidity in this impressive wine.