Meet the Meatiest French Dip Sandwich—but Hold the Beef

For many of my formative years, my family suffered through my dad’s hippie vegetarian phases. Before you judge me too harshly for criticizing my dad’s cooking attempts, consider that this was the ’80s and ’90s, when plant-based diets were not as prevalent in the US as they are today. My dad’s culinary skills were also…limited. Meals were usually a sad mixture of overcooked brown rice, mushy steamed vegetables, and a few scattered cashews. But while those dinners didn’t win me over then, they planted a seed. Years later, after some on-and-off flirtations with vegetarianism, I’ve come to see vegetables not just as sides, but as the heart of a meal.

That’s why I love this vegetarian French dip sandwich. It’s not trying to imitate the original LA classic, with its thinly sliced beef and rich jus. Instead, it’s its own thing—a deeply savory, satisfying sandwich that just happens to be meatless. Mushroom lovers and flexitarian omnivores alike will be into this one.

How to Build Deeply Savory Flavor Without Meat

The success of this sandwich starts with the right mushrooms—using a combination of mushrooms gives the sandwich complexity in terms of both flavor and texture. Meaty, sliced portobellos are first seared in a hot skillet until deeply browned. After that, you layer in a variety of flavorful mushrooms—cremini, oyster, shiitake, trumpet, even beech if you’ve got them. The key is to work in small batches so the mushrooms sear, rather than steam. Overcrowding = soggy mushrooms, and nobody wants that. Proper browning builds flavor and gives the mushrooms a juicy, chewy bite.

To amp up the depth of flavor and umami punch even more, I add rehydrated dried porcini mushrooms. Soak them in hot water until softened, then chop and set aside. Don’t toss that soaking liquid—it’s liquid gold and becomes the backbone of your jus.

A Rich Vegetarian Jus That Rivals the Original

From here, it’s all about building layers of flavor for the sauce. After the mushrooms are browned, aromatics such as onions, garlic, and fresh thyme are added to the pan. A spoonful of tomato paste adds even more umami and gives the sauce body. Then it’s all about deglazing: I prefer dry vermouth for its herby, slightly citrusy edge, but dry white wine works just as well. Stir in the reserved porcini soaking liquid (this packs lots of flavor) and your favorite vegetable or mushroom broth, and simmer until the sauce thickens slightly.

What you end up with is an intensely savory, velvety jus—perfect for dunking. It’s rich without being heavy, and layered with earthy, herby, almost meaty flavors.

Tips for Assembling the Perfect Sandwich

The assembly for this sandwich is very similar to a traditional French dip: Use good-quality French or hoagie rolls and toast them lightly before filling. Then pile on the mushroom mixture with tongs or a slotted spoon (you want the filling, not the liquid here). Top with slices of sharp aged provolone or Swiss cheese, then broil until the cheese is melted and bubbling. Serve the remaining jus in small bowls on the side, and you have a sandwich that delivers all the cozy, dip-it-yourself pleasure of the classic—no beef required.

I wish this sandwich had been on the table during those early vegetarian years. It’s hearty, cheesy, and satisfying, with rich flavor and plenty of textural contrast. And while it’s meatless, it doesn’t feel like it’s missing anything. If you’ve been dreaming of a French dip but want to keep it vegetarian—or just want a shroomier version from time to time—this one delivers.

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