77% of All Sunscreen Products Fall Short of Standards, According to New Study—but Many Derms Disagree

Writing about the best new blush or latest dry shampoo is fun, but as a beauty editor, advocating for proper sun safety is a job I take extremely seriously. So when new information pertaining to sunscreen comes out, I’m all ears.

Recently, The Environmental Working Group (EWG) published its 2025 Annual Guide to Sunscreens, finding that fewer than one in four SPF products met its criteria. The health research organization evaluated more than 2,200 products and found that fewer than 500 effectively protect a user’s skin. If reading that makes you feel scared or confused, you’re not alone. The headline gave me major pause too. So I reached out to some of the most trusted dermatologists in my Rolodex and asked for their take on the findings.

Everything You Need To Know About the Latest Sunscreen Study

Is this study a cause for concern?

“Every year around this time, the EWG releases their annual round-up of sunscreens that do not meet their standards, and the result is mass consumer confusion,” says Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon in New York City. “For years, this has been going on, and I can assure you that there has never been a skin cancer attributed to the use of sunscreen. In fact, multiple studies have shown that daily sunscreen use can reduce the incidence of melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma,” explains Mariwalla. She says it’s important to note that the “EWG is not composed of working physicians who see patients” and that there is more danger from not wearing sunscreen.

Dermatologist, skin cancer surgeon, and skin cancer survivor, Ellen Marmur, also agrees with this sentiment. “I care deeply about both patient safety and evidence-based public health messaging,” she says. She notes that while the EWG has helped raise consumer awareness about the ingredients in the sunscreen they buy, board-certified dermatologists do not currently work at the EWG.

Mona Gohara, MD, board-certified dermatologist and the associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine, agrees. “As a dermatologist, I welcome any dialogue that raises public awareness around sun safety, but it’s important we contextualize all findings with both science and practical guidance,” she explains, adding, “Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a proven carcinogen. That’s not up for debate.”

What about the harmful ingredients in sunscreen?

“Sunscreens are regulated by the government as over-the-counter drugs, and as such, have to comply with FDA regulations,” explains Joshua Zeichner, MD, board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai. “While animal studies and lab evaluations have raised questions about the safety of certain ingredients, we need to take this information with a grain of salt because they don’t represent real-world use in humans,” he says.

Adding to the conversation, dermatologist Ellen Marmur notes, “While the EWG raises valid concerns about certain ingredients, they often do so without valid or reproducible science. Their conclusions are frequently based on preliminary data or animal studies that don’t reflect real-world human use.”

Mariwalla also weighs in: “When it comes to safety of ingredients, the FDA performed a max use test,” she explains. “That showed that when used at maximal doses, you can have some absorption of ingredients into the bloodstream. But let’s take a moment and see how that kind of experiment is designed: they put people in a windowless room and had them apply the maximum amount of sunscreen every three hours for days. In other words, no one—not even the strictest dermatologist—does that,” she says.

What’s the best way to protect our skin from cancer?

Our best defense against UV-related skin cancer and premature aging, Gohara says, includes a broad approach: “Seeking shade during peak sun hours, wearing wide-brimmed hats and UV-protective clothing, sunglasses, and—crucially—applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day, and reapplying it every two hours when outdoors.”

Marmur encourages, “Be creative with sun protection and be smart under the sun, and embrace today’s high-performance sunscreen formulations that aren’t greasy or toxic—they’re refined, protective, and compatible with your lifestyle,” says Marmur. “I tell every patient: ‘Smarter sun protection means living better, aging slower, and never burning.'”

Should we be scared to use sunscreen?

Breathe easy because all of the derms I spoke to agreed that the answer to this question is a big fat no. “When used properly, today’s sunscreens—particularly those backed by peer-reviewed research and regulatory oversight—do a very good job protecting our skin,” Gohara says. “It’s about forming smart, sustainable sun habits that add up over a lifetime. Let’s empower people to choose wisely and apply consistently. Prevention is powerful, and sun protection, when done right, is a vital part of that,” Gohara says.

Marmur adds, “To date, the risks of using SPF are negligible compared to the risk of skin cancer, the most common cancer in humans. And rates of both surgery and mortality continue to rise globally—largely due to increased sun exposure and inadequate protection.” Zeichner echos, saying “Ultimately, the use of any personal care product is a risk/benefit ratio. I personally believe that the benefit in using sunscreen to protect yourself against the development of skin cancer outweighs any perceived risks.” 

What should you look for when buying a sunscreen?

“Mineral and chemical sunscreens work differently but that is why we have the SPF rating,” Mariwalla explains. “So an SPF of 30 will protect you equally whether it is chemical or mineral because that is what that rating measures.” Which one you should use depends on what you like. “Under makeup? Chemical. Because it’s more lightweight and easier to blend. Play water sports? Mineral because it’s a bit more photo-stable. Skin of color? Chemical, so you don’t get a white caste. And so on,” she breaks down. “Typically, the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually wear.”

Be mindful of products with a very high SPF, as “very high SPF numbers—like SPF 70–100—may give consumers a false sense of security,” cautions Marmur. “This can tempt people to stay in the sun longer, skip reapplication, and increase their risk of UV damage.”

What is “the sunscreen paradox” theory?

“There is one theory some people call the “sunscreen paradox” and that is the idea that people who wear sunscreen somehow get more skin cancer,” explains Mariwalla. “That theory is that people who wear sunscreen get a false sense of safety so they stay in the sun longer without reapplying so they get burns. The reality is if you wear sunscreen and reapply it you will lower your risk of skin cancer.”

Could our sunscreen products be better?

“We’re now in the era of a new generation of sunscreens,” says Marmur. “Modern formulations are cleaner and more elegant, often omitting older ingredients like fragrance, sulfates, phthalates, parabens, oxybenzone, and octinoxate—compounds linked to reef damage and skin sensitivity. New spray sunscreens are safer than past aerosol formulas. Many now omit flammable propellants like butane and propane, using bag-on-valve technology instead—delivering even spray distribution with lower inhalation risk.”

Mariwalla says, “Do I think the U.S. needs more advanced sun filters like they have in Europe? Yes. Does that mean our sun filters are going to give you cancer or are unsafe? No.”