The Easiest, Fluffiest Pancake Recipe From a Pro Who’s Flipped Thousands of Them
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Baking powder | Because baking powder is “double-acting,” meaning it produces carbon dioxide as soon as it comes in contact with moisture and then again when heated, baking powder–leavened goods are generally lighter and fluffier than those made with baking soda alone, and this definitely was true here. The pancakes made with baking powder were noticeably fluffier with a lighter crumb structure. |
Baking Soda | These pancakes were noticeably more squat, with a denser, chewier crumb and fewer air bubbles inside. Baking soda reacts with liquid acids to produce carbon dioxide, but because my recipe is designed to only use very basic pantry ingredients, I had no acid like buttermilk or yogurt in my formula to react with the baking soda. I recognize that beyond its role as a leavener, baking soda also increases the pH of the batter, which speeds desirable browning reactions that can help deliver a delicious golden exterior. But I found in testing that with the right amount of added fat and sugar, along with proper temperature control during cooking, the pancakes browned well without the addition of baking soda. The lesson here is that baking soda may make sense in pancake recipes that include an acidifying ingredient, but it does not help much in a very basic pancake recipe like this one and should be avoided. |
Baking powder + baking soda | Even though baking soda alone does not work well in a bare-bones pancake batter like this one, I still wanted to see if it might offer some benefit when used in combination with baking powder (many other published basic pancake recipes use both). But I struggled to notice any differences between this batch and the batch with just baking powder. My conclusion is that it’s just not needed here. |
Based on my testing, I decided to add just baking powder to the final recipe. And because of baking powder’s dual-acting nature (first when it is combined with water, and second when it’s heated), it’s overall the more reliable and forgiving option. Even if your batter sits around on the counter for a few extra minutes while you’re making coffee or chasing your kids between batches of pancakes, the batter will still aerate properly as soon as it hits the hot pan, resulting in light and fluffy pancakes.
With the type of leavener decided, I also tested a wide range of amounts, from as low as 1/2 teaspoon baking powder (barely any lift) all the way up to 2 tablespoons, where the pancakes had an assertive chemical after taste. Ultimately I landed on using 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder, an amount that leavens effectively but doesn’t make the pancakes taste overtly alkaline like pretzels.
How Many Eggs Is Just Right?
Eggs play a crucial role in almost all baked goods by providing structure, leavening, flavor, and moisture. So the quantity of egg used in pancakes is significant. Too few eggs, and the pancakes may not be rich enough in flavor, too many and they might be too dense and gummy in texture. After testing my batter with varying numbers of eggs (from 1 up to 3), I landed on adding two eggs to this recipe, which is pretty standard. Two eggs gave the batter the structure it needed, rich flavor, without a springy stiff texture (which can occur from too much egg in baked goods).
Should You Use Butter or Oil in Pancakes?
Fat is a key ingredient in most baked goods. It enriches the batter both in flavor and texture, and reduces gluten formation for more tenderness. The main question here is what kind of fat: butter or oil? There’s no one right answer for pancakes, with some preferring butter for its flavor while others prefer oil for ease (no melting required) and for greasing the pan, since you don’t have to worry about butter’s milk solids burning. The one thing I felt strongly about heading into this recipe is that I use the same fat in the batter as I do for greasing the griddle pan, since the goal here is a streamlined and easy recipe. That means one fat in the ingredient list, not two.
Ultimately, though, the choice is yours. If you’re less skilled at cooking pancakes, I recommend using a neutral oil in the batter and to grease the skillet, since the oil offers a higher margin of error thanks to its higher smoke point. But if you’re a skilled pancake flipper and want to get more flavor and lightly fried golden edges on your pancakes, opt for butter since the milk solids will carmelize and develop incredible flavor when cooked long enough.
Why Sugar Matters More Than You Think
I’m a firm believer that pancakes should be relatively savory on their own, but they need to have flavor. And to achieve flavor here, sugar is a must—and more sugar than you might think. This batter calls for a quarter cup of sugar (more than most standard pancake recipes), which might initially sound heavy-handed, but the sugar not only enhances the browning reactions on the exterior of the pancakes that contribute significantly to the overall flavor, but in combination with the salt it also contributes a more complex flavor in the tender crumb as well.
How to Mix Pancake Batter the Right Way
When making cakes, quick breads, and cookies, it’s standard to whisk the batter until fully smooth so that all the ingredients are fully combined. But this is not the case with pancakes. As Serious Eats’ former culinary director Kenji López-Alt noted in his buttermilk pancake recipe, thoroughly mixing a pancake batter until it is completely smooth overdevelops the gluten in the flour and leads to tough, chewy pancakes. It’s better to leave a few lumps of unincorporated flour in a pancake batter; not only will the remnant bits of dry flour disappear into the pancakes as they cook, but they also help retain air pockets in the batter, leading to lighter and fluffier results.
I put this to the test with my batter and stirred one batch until smooth and another until just combined with lumps left in, and found that the amount that I stirred the batters greatly impacted their consistency. With less stirring, the lumpy batter was noticeably thicker because lumps obstructed the flow of liquid. The lumpy batter was also better able to hold onto the air bubbles formed during cooking, producing taller pancakes that were also more tender. This is due to two reasons. The first is that since the batter is thick, the batter can trap in the gases and steam produced during cooking. The other reason is that with more stirring you may actually deflate the batter, mechanically beating the air bubbles out of the mixture as you mix it.
Ideally, the batter should be visibly lumpy and thick enough that it will fall from your spoon in clumps, not a continuous stream. This thicker batter will not spread out too much on the skillet during cooking, a key way to keep the pancakes tall.
But before you start cooking the lumpy batter, it is also important to let the batter rest. A brief ten- to 15-minute rest allows those unmixed flour pockets in the batter to hydrate slightly, because no one wants a mouthful of dry flour. Also, as those flour pockets absorb more liquid, they further thicken the batter to guarantee even fluffy pancakes. So for the best pancakes, don’t skip this rest. Use it as an excuse to go pour yourself a cup of coffee.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
6 Short-Order-Cook-Approved Tips for Cooking Perfect Pancakes
We’ve all been there, the dreaded first pancake fail. Maybe the skillet was too hot, or not hot enough when the batter was dolloped in, leaving you with either scorched or overly pale pancakes.
The goal is to get the pancakes evenly browned on each side at a rate that allows the middle to cook through without overcooking and drying out. If the pancakes scorch before they can cook through, your skillet is too hot. If the pancakes remain stubbornly pale, it’s too cool. There are a few key steps to achieve this Goldilock’s moment, avoiding that failed first pancake.
1. Stick with a well-seasoned skillet. A well-seasoned cast iron skillet, carbon steel skillet, or a nonstick skillet will all work well here. Or, if you have a nonstick griddle pan, now is it’s time to get it out—just note that you’ll be able to cook more than three pancakes at once, as is directed in the recipe below. Using a cooking surface that is resistant to sticking is an easy way to eliminate problems.
2. Properly preheat the skillet. An evenly browned and properly cooked pancake starts with an evenly heated skillet. Start by preheating the skillet over medium-low heat. The skillet will heat slowly and evenly, ensuring fewer hot spots in the pan. Preheat the skillet with either neutral oil like vegetable or canola oil, or butter. Once the oil is shimmering or the butter is melted and just beginning to bubble (over medium-low heat this should take about 5 minutes), the skillet should be at the correct temperature.
3. Make a Mini Test Pancake. Before you commit cooking to a full round of pancakes, double check that the skillet is at the proper heat level with a small test pancake by dropping one tablespoon of batter onto the heated surface. If it is golden brown after one minute, you’re ready to cook. If not, adjust the heat as necessary, and test again with another tablespoon of batter.
4. Follow the visual cues. Truth be told, there’s no better way to judge a pancake than with your eyes. The first sign to look for is small bubbles breaking evenly across the surface of the pancake. But also don’t hesitate to peek under the hood from time to time to monitor its progress by lifting the pancake up with a spatula to check its underside. What you want to see is an even, golden brown color from edge to edge. Don’t forget that the griddle’s heat may need to be adjusted along the way. It takes practice to get the hang of it, but it’s the most delicious sort of practice in the world.
5. Don’t overcrowd the skillet. Technically, four 1/4-cup-sized pancakes can fit in a 12-inch skillet. But when it comes time to flip the pancakes, you’ll find you won’t have enough space to easily shimmy your spatula under each pancake to flip it cleanly, and you might accidentally flip one pancake onto another. To avoid this, portion no more than three 1/4-cup-sized pancakes into the skillet at a time. This triangular positioning will give you enough room to slide a spatula under each pancake without knocking into the other ones and flip with ample room. If you want to make larger pancakes, scale down the number of pancakes in the skillet accordingly. Just be mindful that the larger the pancake, the tougher the flip.
6. Flip with confidence. Perfect pancake flipping comes with experience, and to those less experienced, it can be a bit intimidating, but it’s still achievable. Perhaps the best advice is this: Don’t overthink it. The more you fret about messing up, the more likely you are to hesitate in the critical flipping moment, and the more likely it will go wrong. (Apply this sage advice to pancakes, to life, whatever works for you.)
Worst case, your flip goes slightly wrong—well, technically, worst case is you end up with a pancake on your floor or ceiling, but let’s assume it’s not going to go that wrong. “Oh no! It’s not a perfect pancake!” you might exclaim as you stare at your flop of a flip. But really, who cares? It’s still a delicious, fresh-off-the-griddle pancake. No one will complain.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
How to Store (and Reheat) Pancakes Without Ruining Them
I like to make and serve pancakes right away, but if you need to hold some in advance, slide them onto a wire rack and hold in a low oven (around 200°F) for up to about one hour.
If you aren’t planning on eating an entire batch of pancakes, and you have extra uncooked batter, don’t store the batter as the leavener will start to lose its strength over time, leading to flat and chew pancakes later. Instead, cook the remaining pancakes and freeze them.
To freeze them properly, separate them with paper or foil between each pancake to prevent them from fusing together before wrapping tightly in plastic wrap or storing in a zipper-lock freezer bag. To reheat them you can place the frozen pancakes on a rimmed baking sheet and heat in a 325°F oven until warmed through, about 6 minutes. Or easier yet, if you’re just heating up a couple in a hurry on a weekday morning, you can wrap them in a damp paper towel and microwave them for 30 to 60 seconds until heated through, flipping halfway through reheating. They’ll steam and retain their moisture when microwaved.
No matter what, serve your pancakes with loads of good butter and real maple syrup—I worked hard to make sure these easy pancakes were also totally delicious, so don’t ruin it by messing this part up.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Cook Mode
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2 cups all-purpose flour (9 ounces; 255 g)
1/4 cup sugar (1.75 ounces; 50 g)
3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/4 cup (60 ml) neutral oil such as vegetable or canola oil, or melted butter, plus extra for greasing the skillet
1 1/3 cups (315 ml) whole milk, room temperature
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract, optional
Assorted toppings, such as butter, maple syrup, confectioners’ sugar, honey, jams, preserves, sweetened whipped cream, or chocolate syrup
In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together until combined. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, oil, milk and vanilla (if using) until well combined. Pour egg mixture into flour mixture and with a whisk, stir gently until just combined (batter should remain lumpy with a few streaks of flour). Let batter sit for 10 to 15 minutes before cooking.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-low heat until shimmering, 5 minutes. Using paper towels, carefully wipe out excess oil, leaving thin film on bottom and sides of skillet.
To Test Temperature of Skillet: Drop 1 tablespoon batter in center of skillet. If pancake is pale golden brown after 1 minute, skillet is ready. If it is too light or too dark, adjust heat accordingly.
Using 1/4-cup dry measuring cup or ice cream scoop, portion batter into skillet in 3 places, leaving even spacing between portions. Use the back of a measuring cup or a spoon to gently spread batter into a 4-inch round. Cook until bubbles on surface are just beginning to break, edges are set, and bottom sides are golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes.
Using a thin, wide spatula, flip pancakes and continue to cook until the second sides are golden brown, 1 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a plate and serve. (Alternatively transfer cooked pancakes to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, and hold warm in a 200℉; 93℃ oven until ready to serve.) Repeat with remaining batter, using additional oil as needed.
Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez
Special Equipment
12-inch nonstick skillet or a well-seasoned cast iron or carbon steel skillet
Make-Ahead and Storage
To store leftover pancakes, separate them with paper or foil between each pancake before wrapping tightly in plastic wrap or storing in a zipper-lock freezer bag and freeze up to 3 weeks.
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