The History of Poitín, Ireland’s Native Moonshine

When one thinks of distilled spirits from Ireland, the first thought is almost always Irish whiskey. But there’s a much older spirit that’s even more ingrained in Irish culture: poitín.

Poitín (pronounced pot-cheen) is named after the small pot stills traditionally used in its production. Traditionally, it’s made from malted and unmalted barley, similar to a single pot still Irish whiskey. 

“Other cereal grains can be used, as well as fruits, berries, and herbs for infusion,” says Ciaran “Rowdy” Rooney, master distiller at Glendalough Distillery. 

Poitín is unaged, generally, but allowed to be rested for up to 10 weeks. The result is a crystal-clear spirit exhibiting a range of flavors and aromas. The most common and prominent are honey and grain along with floral and fruity notes. Much like a bourbon mash bill, the exact ratio of ingredients used can vastly affect the finished spirit. 

“Depending on the chosen grains, barley will add heather and fruity character,” says Mark McLaughlin, director of Irish whiskey at New York City’s The Dead Rabbit. “Oats give it textural depth while wheat adds a soft sweetness.” 

The history of poitín

Poitín is often referred to as “Irish moonshine,” but the history of the spirit is much more complicated than that. Monks originally distilled it for medicinal purposes. 

“Poitín making was first recorded in Ireland in the 12th century in monastic manuscripts in both Latin and Irish,” says Pádraic Ó Griallais, co-founder of the poitín-producing Micil Distillery. “It was widely made until it was first taxed in 1661 and then made illegal in 1731.” 

From 1661 until poitín production was fully legalized in 1997, almost all poitín production was illicit, which is why it is sometimes compared to moonshine production during Prohibition in the United States. 

Dave Mulligan has been at the vanguard of Poitín’s modern renaissance for the past 13 years. The owner of Bán Poitín, Mulligan has also launched a renowned poitín-focused cocktail program at Dublin’s Bar 1661, as well as releasing Little & Green, a line of ready-to-drink canned cocktails based on poitín.

“One-third of its life has been illegal, and two-thirds of its life it was cultural,” he says. “Respect where respect is due. Even a 336-year prohibition couldn’t stop the Irish from making and drinking it.” 

“From a cultural perspective, poitín-making traditions play a role in the lives of many families across rural Ireland,” says McLaughlin. “Traditions of poitín making have been handed down through generations, and still last to this day.”

Though they are distinct spirits, single pot still Irish whiskey and poitín share a similar DNA. The relationship is similar to that of mezcal and tequila. 

“I think comparing poitín to mezcal is well founded in that they are both spirits that best represent the historical distilling practices of their countries and are both rooted in a deep sense of place,” says McLaughlin.

Though there are a handful of distilleries producing high-end poitín, traditions die hard and there is still illicit poitín being distilled in the hills and forests of Ireland’s countryside. 

“Everybody knows somebody who knows somebody who can still get you illegal poitín,” says Rooney.

The modern poitín renaissance 

Poitín has come a long way since its production became mainstream again in the late 1990s. 

In Ireland, many still perceive the spirit as potent “rocket fuel” distilled in remote hills. This perception is gradually shifting due in part to producers that are authentically portraying poitín. Distilleries like Micil, Killowen, Bán, and Glendalough are breathing new life into the category by producing balanced and nuanced spirits perfectly suited for sipping neat or used in cocktails.

“Our job as an industry is to educate the masses about the beauty and joy of poitín,” says Rooney. “Don’t be afraid of poitín. This is a proper, top-class spirit.”

Current producers understand that the history and ties to the land are what make poitín unique and put authenticity at the center of what they do. 

“The reason poitín stood the test of time is that its best producers were creating flavorful spirit from the locally sourced grain, in many cases malted with local peat and delicately distilled to get to the true heart of the spirit,” says McLaughlin.

The emerging craft cocktail scene in Ireland has been a major blessing, with Bar 1661 as the tip of the spear when it comes to poitín cocktails. According to Mulligan, 50% of the menu features cocktails shaken and stirred with poitín. Their biggest breakthrough is the Belfast Coffee, which is Bar 1661’s version of a classic Irish Coffee. The cocktail, which outsells Guinness there, has become something of a modern classic in Ireland and can be found on bar menus across the island.

“If a cocktail bar in Ireland is not listing poitín drinks on their menu they are way behind,” says Mulligan. “The last five years have seen it become a staple.”

Ireland is not alone in the poitín renaissance. The Dead Rabbit proudly stocks the spirit while the Sun Tavern in London boasts the largest collection of legal poitín in the world.

There’s still a long way to go before poitín achieves global recognition as a premium spirit, but things are on the right track. 

“I think the younger generation of Irish people are rediscovering poitín and unlearning a lot of the old wives tales they had heard before,” says Ó Griallais. “The world is now picking up on it too, and it’s growing legs.”

Those most involved with the revival maintain high hopes for poitín.

“We are only getting started,” says Mulligan. “Keep watching, something special is about to happen in Ireland and it is never going to be hidden away again.”