The Only Blueberry Pie My Husband Will Eat
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Nestled among the trees of Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest, just off Highway H in Delta, Wisconsin, is Delta Diner—one of the great diners of America. My husband grew up going to Camp Nebagamon nearby, and every summer, he’d visit the diner for red-eye gravy, malted milkshakes, and slices of berry pies packed full of wild blueberries. It is his favorite blueberry pie in the world; for many years, I tried to recreate it to no avail. No pie was as good as Delta Diner’s blueberry pie—until I made former Serious Eats editor Stella Parks’ blueberry pie. The first time I made the pie, my husband finished half the pie in one sitting. Needless to say, it became a summertime staple in our household.
Made with a combination of wild and cultivated blueberries for a more complex flavor, Stella’s blueberry pie is sweet and tart, with a crisp crust that holds up the jammy filling. One of the reasons Stella’s blueberry pie is so delicious is the innovative use of a spice that might surprise you in a pie: She incorporates a touch of coriander to enhance the floral notes of the berries. Both blueberries and coriander contain linalool, which belongs to a group of volatile compounds called terpenes. Blueberries and coriander may have different flavor profiles—coriander has a bright citrus note, while blueberries are sweet and acidic—but they bring out the best in each other when they’re paired. The result is a blueberry pie that’s more aromatic than one made without coriander.
Preparing the pie is easy. After rolling out your pie dough and lining your pie dish, simply toss the fruit with lemon juice, sugar, salt, coriander, and tapioca starch, then scrape it into the prepared pie pan. A lattice topping is nice but not essential—simply enclose the pie, brush it with egg wash, and bake it until the filling is juicy and bubbling. You’ll have to wait for the pie to cool completely before you dig in, and though that’s an understandably difficult task, I promise you it’s still easier than a trek to Delta Diner in Wisconsin.
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