Food & Drink

These Are Best to Rums Make a Classic Mai Tai

Unlike many tropical cocktails that rely heavily on fruit juice and syrups, the balance of aged rum, lime juice, orgeat, and orange curaçao in a Mai Tai was crafted with intention.

The Mai Tai can be traced to 1944, to the original Trader Vic’s in Oakland, California. The bar’s namesake purveyor, Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron, created the drink to showcase the now-legendary J. Wray & Nephew 17-year Jamaican rum.

“Trader Vic himself noted that the creation of the drink started with the rum, rather than the other flavors,” says Martin Cate, co-owner of San Diego’s False Idol and San Francisco’s Smuggler’s Cove. “He wanted to accent the taste of long-aged, pot-still Jamaican rum, so he was judicious in both the quantity and volume of the supporting ingredients.”

The rum that made the drink

The cocktail quickly became a hit for Trader Vic’s. Unfortunately, there was a dwindling supply of J. Wray & Nephew 17, which the Jamaican distillery had discontinued.

“The 17-year expression was rare and in limited supply,” says Kevin Beary, beverage director at Three Dots and a Dash in Chicago. “By the 1950s, Trader Vic ran out of the stock and had to find replacements, leading him to experiment with blends to approximate the same flavor.” 

Trader Vic switched to the Wray & Nephew 15-year, but that also ran out. He went through multiple blends in hopes to approximate the same flavor profile. One of his blends combined an aged Jamaican rum with another aged rum from Martinique, which is the style that many modern bartenders have adapted.

With the 17-year J. Wray & Nephew extinct, bartenders have continued to blend rums to approximate Vic’s original recipe.

“Unfortunately, over time, this led them to stray further and further from the original, until they ended up with a recipe featuring a light rum base and a dark rum float,” says Adam Sandroni, director of finance and development at Good Lion Hospitality, and a bartender at Test Pilot in Santa Barbara, California.

As bartenders continued to play a game of telephone with the recipe, the name “Mai Tai” became a catch-all term for any tropical drink, synonymous with resorts in Hawaii.

“You’ll find places that are making Hawaiian-style Mai Tais with pineapple that are non-traditional, not using anything with too much rum character, but rather basing the drink around the sweetness of the juices,” says Ricky Ramirez, owner and bartender at The Mothership in Milwaukee.

The original 1944 Mai Tai recipe remains a classic. Its rum-forward profile is balanced, complex, and delicious. That it serves as a vehicle for good rum has made it a favorite of bartenders, who craft unique blends or use specific rums to create their take on the classic. But there are some guidelines that home bartenders should keep in mind as they attempt to craft the perfect Mai Tai.

What to look for in a Mai Tai rum

Not any rum will work in a classic Mai Tai. The original recipe was crafted to support a heavily aged, funky Jamaican rum. To make the best possible Mai Tai, choose a similar flavor profile, either from a single rum or a blend.

“Some bartenders prefer Jamaican rums that are higher [in] esters (organic compounds that contribute to a rum’s flavor) than Wray & Nephew, from producers such as Hampden Estate,” says Cate. “While this isn’t historically traditional, it can still make a great Mai Tai. Some bartenders use agricole rum from Martinique, which isn’t traditional, but still makes for a great drink.”

“The philosophy behind a Mai Tai definitely depends on who is making it,” says Sandroni. “Personally, I prefer a simpler approach of a great rum with a strong backbone, fresh lime, a good orange liqueur, and quality orgeat.”

Some styles of rum should be avoided, as they change the flavor profile of the drink.

“Avoid anything that is competing with vodka in the rum category,” says Ramirez. “Nothing white that doesn’t have any characteristics. You want the rum’s flavor to come through in the Mai Tai.”

The Mai Tai was designed to showcase a great rum, so we asked these bartending experts for their favorites to use in a classic, Trader Vic’s-style Mai Tai. Here are their recommendations.

Denizen Merchant’s Reserve

Food & Wine / Denizen Rum


Not many spirits are developed for a single cocktail, but that’s what Denizen set out to do with Merchant’s Reserve. “It’s designed to mimic the flavor profile of what Vic called his ‘Second Adjusted Mai Tai Formula,’ a blend of eight-year-old Jamaican rum and molasses-based Martinique rum,” says Cate.

It works beautifully in a classic Mai Tai. “It has a touch of vanilla from the barrel and some heavier esters that give it enough of a punch to cut through the other ingredients without overwhelming them,” says Sandroni.

Appleton Estate Reserve

Food & Wine / Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum


Appleton Estate is one of the biggest rum producers in the Caribbean. It produces Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum, the descendant of the original rum used by Trader Vic.

Most of Appleton Estate’s bottles are smooth and balanced, with less funkiness than other Jamaican rums. But the eight-year-old Reserve has a bit more kick to it. “While there are older Appleton expressions, Reserve has a higher percentage of pot-still rum in the blend and stands up better in the drink,” says Cate.

Even with a higher percentage of pot-distilled rum, it’s still balanced enough to make for a solid Mai Tai base. “It’s a mildly funky Jamaican rum,” says Cate. “It will make for a richer brown-sugar tone in your Mai Tai.”

R.L. Seale 12

Food & Wine / R.L. Seale & Co


From the legendary Four Square distillery in Barbados, R.L. Seale 12-year is a big, bold rum. It showcases notes of orange peel, nutmeg, molasses, and soft oak.

It’s not going to taste exactly like your typical Jamaican rum, but according to Kevin Beary, that’s fine. “This aged Barbados rum has enough body, fruit, and spice to hold up to lime and orgeat, bringing rich depth without overpowering the drink,” he says.

Smith and Cross

Food & Wine / Smith & Cross Jamaica Rum


When it comes to tropical drinks, Smith and Cross should be one of the first funky Jamaican rums you seek. It’s one of the biggest, funkiest Jamaican rums that’s also affordable and readily available.

“This is a heavy funk, pot-still Jamaican rum,” says Sandroni. “It’s aggressive and overproof, and [it] works great as a complementary rum if you’re using [a lighter rum] as your base. Its strength also makes it perfect in other cocktails like the Kingston Negroni and Jungle Bird.

Banks 7 Golden Age

Food & Wine / Banks Rum


Despite what it may suggest, the “7” in Banks 7 Golden Age’s name doesn’t refer to the rum’s age. It’s a reference to the seven countries from which these blended rums originate. 

The result is balanced, but the small portion of Jamaican pot-still rum in this bottle is noticeable, which makes it a great fit for the Mai Tai. “Each country has its own unique flavor profile, and using an aged rum that has multiple characteristics is pretty cool,” says Ramirez. “It still has funkiness from a pot-still rum.”

Rhum J.M 55

Food & Wine / Rhum J.M


Before you can break the rules, you first must understand why they’re in place. To use an unaged agricole from Martinique in a Mai Tai is a bold decision. When fresh cane rums are used in a Mai Tai, they’re usually barrel-aged. That tempers some of the fresh and grassy aromas and flavors of an agricole-style rum.

“While not traditional, some bartenders prefer agricole for its dryness and brightness,” says Beary. “Use in a 50/50 split with a richer Jamaican for a modern twist. The notes of green sugarcane, citrus peel, tropical fruit, and vanilla will definitely add a noticeably unique twist to your Mai Tai.”

Appleton Estate Legend 17 Year

Food & Wine / Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum


In 2023, Appleton Estate revived the original Wray & Nephew 17. Using what documentation it had regarding production, Appleton Estate toiled to recreate the extinct classic. The 1,500 bottles are largely sold out and a bit pricey. But if you seek to match Trader Vic’s original recipe, there’s no modern rum that’s closer to the original. 

“This thoughtful and thoroughly researched reinterpretation by Appleton’s Joy Spence unsurprisingly really sings in a Mai Tai and provides some good direction when picking other rums,” says Cate.


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