These Wild Berries Connect Canadian First Nations People to the Land

From east to west and from north to south, Canada is home to myriad wild berries. Blueberries and cranberries are some of the most ubiquitous, but raspberries, pin cherries, bunchberries, huckleberries, saskatoon berries, buffalo berries, blackberries, chokecherries, currants, and gooseberries also grow in the Canadian wild. These berries have been and remain a vital cornerstone of the traditional Indigenous diet.

This means that berry foraging is equally foundational to Indigenous culture, spiritually linking foragers to the land, preserving traditions through ceremony, and keeping plant-medicine teachings alive, not to mention engaging people in sustainable harvesting practices and preservation.

I sat down with three individuals steeped in berry (and berry-foraging) culture to delve into their experiences and connections to the wild berry: Cree knowledge keeper Brenda Holder of Canmore, Alberta; Inuk chef Sheila Flaherty from Iqaluit, Nunavut; and Ojibway chef Stéphane Levac (M’Chigeeng First Nation) of Nova Scotia. Here’s what I learned.

The symbols of ceremony

Spiritually, berries feature in ceremonies and storytelling shared from generation to generation, representing renewal, abundance, and gratitude. Blueberries, saskatoon berries, and chokecherries are often used as offerings to the land, spirits, ancestors, or creator during ceremonies, signaling gratitude for nature’s gifts and the interconnectedness of all living beings. In addition to berries’ inherent meanings, the intention of the ceremony is key, according to Levac. “Are we providing food? Are we providing medicine? Or are we preserving cultural history?”

The bearers of medicine

Berries and their leaves are credited by Indigenous people as having the inherent ability to serve as antihistamines and anti-inflammatory medicines. Many wild berries are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and nutrients, making them natural remedies for various ailments. All parts of the plant are put to use or preserved; leaves and berries can be dried, for example, and consumed at another time as medicinal tea. 

In addition to being prepared in teas, berries are also prepared as poultices and syrups in healing practices. These remedies are often accompanied by songs, prayers, or smudging to enhance their efficacy and connect the healer to spiritual guidance. “Berries have a lot of different uses, from treating colds and flu to building strength afterward,” Holder says. “They can be used in various ways to alleviate all sorts of different digestive complaints and much more.”

Connecting to the land

Additionally, the sense of place that berries provide adds depth and meaning to the foraging experience. The act of gathering berries itself is considered a healing practice, fostering mindfulness, community connection, and a sense of gratitude toward the land. This process is often passed down generationally, reinforcing cultural identity and mental well-being.

“What I love about foraging and picking berries is the vast serenity of the Arctic,” says Flaherty. “There is something about being off-grid, being one with nature, thinking about my ancestors and the people I come from and how they survived and thrived since time immemorial. And I always think of my dearest mom. I become one with her.”

Preservation as practice

Meanwhile, preserving foraged berries can extend their benefits and power into later seasons. Flaherty likes to preserve her berries for a variety of future uses by freezing them. “To maintain the berries’ structure, I freeze them individually on a sheet pan and then I vacuum seal them for use throughout the year,” she says. 

Dried berries are also a vital component of pemmican. “Pemmican is made from dried meat ground into a powder and dried berries also ground into powder, all mixed with fat and bone marrow,” Holder says. “It is the perfect travel and survival food.”

The most cherished berry

Everyone has a favorite when it comes to berries. For Holder, the blueberry gets top marks. “I love all berries really, but blueberries are my one true favorite,” she says, followed by strawberries, saskatoons, raspberries, huckleberries, and highbush cranberries. Nostalgia plays a role, she says. “There’s such comfort associated with the aromas of my kokum’s [grandmother’s] kitchen. In the morning, she would have blueberry jam and toast for us, and whenever I eat this, it brings me straight back to a safe place with my kokum.”

Levac favors blueberries for similarly nostalgic reasons. “As a kid growing up in northern Ontario, I would often go into the woods with my parents to forage these berries,” he says. “The adventure would always bring great excitement; gathering your own food makes it taste that much better.”

Flaherty’s berry preference reflects Canada’s high Arctic regions. “My absolute favorite berries are the aqpiit: cloudberry or baked-apple in English,” she says. “My late mother would always talk about berry picking in and around Tuktuuyaqtuuq and talk about her love for aqpiit. There is a special connection when I visit Tuktuuyaqtuuq and forage in the high season. I instantly fell in love with aqpiit when I went berry picking; it was a never-ending sea of orange across the land. On Baffin Island, they aren’t as common — we have to make a 100-mile boat trip from Iqaluit to the area where we pick them.”

The principles of foraging

While berries play such important roles in ceremony, medicine, and family legacies of foods and flavors, it’s vital to respect their place as a wild crop. “The general rule is to only take a small percentage of whatever it is that you are foraging,” Levac says. “The idea is to not disturb wildlife but rather to encourage biodiversity.”

Holden shares Levac’s care. “I would say to just be respectful to the land; don’t overharvest and take more than you need,” she says. “Always leave something for the land and the animals. Be a caretaker and not just a taker.”

This commitment to honoring traditional berry-foraging practices ensures that the practice doesn’t disappear and continues to inspire new generations of people to meaningfully embrace the rich history and the sacred wisdom Canadian wild berries possess.

Want to forage with our experts?

Join Stéphane Levac this summer in Nova Scotia on a foraging walk on National Indigenous Peoples Day (June 21) in Scots Bay on the Bay of Fundy. The focus will be on sea vegetables and beach succulents. Follow Levac on Instagram @chefstephanelevac for updates and details.

Plan a seasonal foraging expedition with Sheila Flaherty by contacting her directly on Instagram: @sijjakkut or @siilaflaherty. 

Brenda Holder already hosts medicine walks in Banff National Park through her company Mahikan Trails; this summer, look for two new pilot programs: a Tea Healing Retreat and Feast the Forest. Email her for details: brenda@mahikan.ca.

The world of Canada’s wild berries

It’s no wonder that a country as vast as Canada would be home to a bounty of berries worthy of its size: more than 200 species, in fact. Among all those drupes, pomes, and aggregate fruits, here are six berries worth getting acquainted with before your next trip. 

Buffalo berries

Edible but tart, the Canadian buffalo berry produces red fruit that shines in jams and jellies (and is used for a kind of ice cream in certain Indigenous communities). It’s found in most Canadian provinces. 

Bunchberries

Native to British Columbia (but found throughout Canada) and plucked from a low-growing, creeping dogwood, these glossy red berries have a mild flavor that can lean bland. Bunchberries were foraged and preserved by some First Nations and are called kawiskowimin (“itchy chin berry”) in Cree for the itchy effect the berries can have when you touch them. 

Chokecherries

Indigenous peoples like the Blackfoot moved to areas rich in chokecherries to harvest them in late summer (when they ripen from red to bluish-black) and preserve them for the winter. The tree’s native range is from Canada’s eastern to western coasts. 

Huckleberries

Huckleberries might be considered wild-berry royalty: Tasting like the most delicious blueberry you’ve ever had, they’re a prize for foragers, particularly in British Columbia, where they’re often found. 

Pin cherries

Growing on small trees with white blossoms in the spring, the pin cherry is so popular with birds that it’s also called a bird cherry. The fruit tastes sour upon picking but cooks beautifully into jams and jellies. You can find pin cherries across Canada, especially farther north. 

Saskatoon berries

The city of Saskatoon is actually named for this berry, which has a sweet, slightly nutty flavor. Native to areas from western Ontario to British Columbia and the Yukon, the vitamin-rich berries were an important part of Indigenous peoples’ diets: in soups and also dried, crushed, and mixed with dry meat and fat to make mookimaani (pemmican).