:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20250410-SEA-SmashedPotatoTart-JordanaShearaPhotography-hero-f23198bcaea74f38b958d830ce81ab75.jpg?w=780&resize=780,470&ssl=1 "This Loaded Vegetable Tart Has the Crispiest Potato Crust")
Why It Works
- Baby gold potatoes provide the ideal amount of starch and moisture for a creamy crust with bits of crunch along the edge of the tart.
- Parboiling the potatoes with salt and baking soda before using them to make the tart crust breaks down their surface to provide a starchy exterior to encourage browning.
- Pre-baking the potato crust in a hot oven before filling it with the vegetable mixture ensures that the edges of the tart are golden brown and crispy.
- Slowly cooking the leeks creates a sweet, savory, and complex flavor and velvety soft texture.
In Northern Vermont, where I live, the last few days the sun has come out, the temperatures have teased a serious warmup, and the snow is finally melting. That means spring is right around the corner, which feels practically life-saving following a long, cold winter here in New England. The flavors of spring happen to be some of my favorites, and this smashed potato tart captures the bright, fresh produce of the season with melt-in-your mouth tender leeks and asparagus, complemented by nutty fontina and tangy goat cheese. The surprise element in this quiche-like tart is the golden brown smashed potato crust, which takes the place of pastry dough—it’s tender on the inside and delightfully crispy on the bottom.
Building the Crisp Potato Crust
The challenge with making this tart was getting the potato crust just right. I tested a handful of different potatoes, pans, and even cooking methods, but the best results were borrowed from one of my favorite recipes, this top-rated Serious Eats recipe for crispy roast potatoes. No, the crust in this tart is nowhere near as crispy as the spuds in Kenji’s recipe, but I borrowed the idea of par-cooking the potatoes in water with salt and baking soda before smashing them for the crust. The alkaline water breaks down the surface of the potatoes, creating a starch slurry, which helps the potatoes brown for a darker, crispier crust.
Once the potatoes are just tender, they are added to a very well greased tart pan and smashed into an even layer. (While it’s helpful to have a tart pan with a removable bottom, you can also make the tart in a pie pan, if that’s all you have.) After the potatoes are smashed and formed into a crust, you’ll add more oil, which further promotes browning and crisping.
Another technique I employ in this recipe to ensure the crispiest potato crust possible is to par-bake the empty crust on the bottom rack in the oven. Oven rack position when baking is often overlooked, but is a critical player in determining how much food browns. With the bottom of the crust as close to the bottom of the hot oven as possible, the bottom of the crust will brown more quickly. After about 40 minutes, the potato crust turns a deep golden brown and develops a pleasant crunch.
The Filling
The filling for this tart has the best qualities of a quiche filling—it’s creamy, rich, and super flavorful—without being stodgy. The egg custard is rich and silky without overshadowing the fresh spring vegetables it’s paired with. I start by sautéing leeks and asparagus with just a hint of garlic and thyme, so the flavors of the vegetables are still the stars.
Before adding the cooked vegetables into the tart, I layer shredded fontina over the par-cooked potato crust. I love fontina’s nutty flavor, and as it melts while baking, it will form a barrier over the bottom crust, preventing any moisture from the vegetables or egg mixture from seeping into it, keeping the crust as crisp as possible. After the vegetables are spread over the top, tangy crumbled goat cheese and lots of fresh herbs are sprinkled on. Then the whole thing is topped with just enough egg custard to bind the ingredients into a cohesive, sliceable tart.
The tart is baked once more, with the oven temperature reduced slightly, until the custard just sets (it should still jiggle slightly in the center). The finished tart needs to rest at room temperature for ten minutes before you can slice into it, so the egg filling can further solidify and finish cooking.
Serving Suggestions
This tart is best served right after its brief rest time, when the potato crust is most crisp. As the tart cools, the crust will inevitably lose some of its crunchy appeal, but it will still be delicious. For easier slicing and an impressive presentation, I recommend running a sharp paring knife along the edges of the pan before removing it to ensure the potato crust doesn’t stick. Slide off the edges of the tart pan and you are ready to slice then serve.
Garnish with more fresh herbs and a dollop of sour cream or crème fraîche and you have a perfect springtime main dish for brunch or lunch.
This Loaded Vegetable Tart Has the Crispiest Potato Crust
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1 1/2 pounds (680 g) baby gold or yellow potatoes, halved (or larger medium-starch yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Golds, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
8 cups (1.9 L) water
5 1/2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided; for table salt use half as much by volume
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, divided
8 ounces leeks, thinly sliced and rinsed well (about 2 cups sliced)
8 ounces asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 garlic clove, minced or grated
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs
1 ounce cream cheese, room temperature
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
4 ounces grated fontina cheese (about 1 cup grated)
2 ounces crumbled goat cheese (about 1/2 cup crumbled)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish
Sour cream or creme fraîche for serving (optional)
Adjust oven rack to bottom position and preheat oven to 425℉ (220℃).
In a large pot, add potatoes, water, 4 teaspoons salt, and baking soda, and heat over high heat until boiling. Add potatoes and cook, lowering heat to maintain simmer, until potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork or knife, 12 to 16 minutes. Drain potatoes then return to pot and heat over medium heat, gently tossing occasionally, until potatoes are dry, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
While potatoes cool, in a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat until butter is melted and no longer foams, about 2 minutes. In a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom or springform pan, use a spatula to scrape melted butter and oil into pan and use a pastry brush to brush evenly on the bottom and sides of pan (see notes). Add warm potatoes in an even layer. Use the back of a greased measuring cup or bottom of a mug to smash potatoes into an even layer, being sure to press potatoes up the sides of tart pan; make sure there are no gaps in the potato layer (use your fingers if needed). Transfer tart pan to a baking sheet. Brush 1 tablespoon oil evenly over top of potato crust and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bake until golden brown and slightly crispy, about 40 minutes.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
Meanwhile, in now-empty large skillet, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil and butter over medium heat until butter is melted. Add leeks and cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting heat as needed to prevent scorching, until very soft and just starting to brown, about 10 minutes.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
Push leeks to edge of skillet and add asparagus, thyme, garlic, black pepper, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt to center of skillet. Cook, occasionally stirring asparagus mixture in the center of skillet, until asparagus is just tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir asparagus into leeks until all vegetable are well combined. Remove from heat and set aside.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, cream cheese, and heavy cream until smooth. Set aside until potatoes are finished cooking.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
When potato crust has finished cooking, remove from oven and reduce oven temperature to 400℉ (205℃). Sprinkle fontina cheese evenly over par-cooked potato crust. Spread cooked leek mixture evenly over fontina.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
Sprinkle goat cheese, parsley, and chives evenly over vegetables, then pour the egg mixture on top. Gently shake tart pan to ensure egg mixture evenly covers vegetables. Bake until eggs are just cooked through and set, 16 to 20 minutes (center will still be slightly soft and jiggly). Transfer tart pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Run a sharp knife along edges of tart pan to loosen potato crust away from pan. Carefully remove the edge of the tart pan. Before serving, sprinkle with parsley and chives. Serve warm or at room temperature with sour cream or crème fraîche.
Serious Eats /Jordana Sheara Photography
Special Equipment
9-inch tart pan with removable bottom or springform pan, large skillet, pastry brush, rimmed baking sheet
Notes
This recipe can be made in a 9-inch pie pan instead of a tart pan. Simply follow the recipe as written, but instead of removing the tart from the pie dish after cooking, simply cut slices out of the pie pan.
Make-Ahead and Storage
I enjoy this recipe best served hot or warm right of the oven; however, it’s also nice served at room temperature.
Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat in tart pan set on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350℉ (175℃) oven until warmed through. Note that the potato crust will not be as crispy when reheated.
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