This Matcha Old-Fashioned Is a Modern Classic in the Making

There’s a mesmerizing quality to the way the bartenders whisk matcha together with hot coconut water to make the Tea Ceremony cocktail at Martiny’s. Like a moth underneath a streetlamp, the frenzied motion that whips the emerald tea into a heavenly froth looks both practiced and effortless. With a fine balance of control and chaos, the act is conducted in the same way, I imagine, a host of the ancient Japanese ritual would prepare matcha for formal ceremonies in Japan. 

Made with Japanese whisky, matcha powder, coconut water and white crème de cacao, the Cliffs Notes read on co-owner Takuma Watanabe’s recipe would equate the cocktail to a creamy matcha latte with hints of chocolate. But between Watanabe’s considered choice of ingredients and the drink’s compelling backstory, the cocktail bears multitudes of deeper meaning and layers of flavor.

The cocktail is, in one respect, quite American, in that it’s inspired by the classic Old-Fashioned—“the most well-known whiskey cocktail in the USA,” says Watanabe. On the other hand, when layered with Japanese whisky, matcha and a hana hojiso (shiso flower) garnish, the cocktail also becomes a reflection of his Japanese heritage. “I chose these elements because I am proud of Japan, and as a drinkable product I knew [the cocktail] had to be easy to understand and enjoy,” he says.

Because the matcha gets whisked with hot coconut water, the cocktail arrives tableside slightly warmer than is typical, allowing for the vibrant grassy aromatics of the tea to leap from the glass. “I use Hakuju matcha, a silky and refined stone-milled matcha from Fukuoka,” says Watanabe, characterizing its flavor as “elegant and focused, with notes of chestnut, pistachios and a refined milky texture.” 

With each sip, the flavor of the drink changes as it dilutes over a glistening cube of diamond-cut ice. As the cocktail sits, the earthy grain qualities of the whisky, which Watanabe describes as one of Japan’s “most elegant” and “aromatic” expressions, emerge. The crème de cacao acts as a nod to the chocolate that sometimes accompanies matcha tea ceremonies in Kyoto, while the shiso flower garnish adds a fourth dimension to the flavor of the drink—a bright acidity that would typically come from citrus oils atop an Old-Fashioned.

In the wake of the cocktail’s enlightened buzz, it strikes me as a recipe that has strong potential to reach “modern classic” status. It’s simple to make, and has broad appeal and a flavor so memorable it sticks out even against other matcha cocktails. When I mention this idea to Watanabe, he admitted it would be a dream. “If it’s become a modern classic, then it’s my honor,” says Watanabe. “I hope a lot of people can enjoy this recipe and play with it.”