This Savory Herb Will Transform Your Desserts

Curious bakers use herbs to enhance all kinds of creations, from a lemon basil cheesecake to olive-oil thyme cake. But let’s consider the elegant, understated beauty of tarragon. Typically used in savory dishes like chicken pot pie, this bright herb brings a subtle anise note that’s delicate enough to please the licorice-averse, along with an almost vanilla-soft finish. Tarragon doesn’t shout like rosemary, thyme, or basil. Instead, it adds flavor, freshness, and complexity to any dish without overpowering. In other words, it’s a great party guest.

Tarragon’s low-key flavor means it needs to be used in sufficient quantity or paired with other subtle ingredients. Savory cooks traditionally use it in chicken or fish dishes, but its gently sweet anise notes shine equally in desserts like strawberry shortcake and tarragon ice cream. Here’s how to buy and use it.

The best tarragon for desserts 

Most good grocery stores carry fresh tarragon near the other packaged fresh herbs, and it can be found at some farmers markets from May through October. It’s also an easy herb to grow in a container or small planter bed; most nurseries sell tarragon seedlings.

French tarragon is the primary variety you’ll find in stores and has the most classic, balanced flavor. Mexican or Spanish tarragon has a stronger anise flavor, but it is also delicious. I avoid Russian tarragon because I find the flavor to be more bitter.

You can use dried tarragon if you must, but keep in mind that it’s much milder in flavor. Stick to using it as a seasoning in savory dishes since it loses some of the more complex notes of the fresh herb. 

How to use tarragon in desserts

My favorite combination is strawberries and tarragon, which I first tried in an Italian sorbet. I’ve since concocted a tarragon ice cream with a fresh strawberry swirl. The cream tames the herbaceousness, and the strawberry provides lift and acidity to the scoop. If you’re skeptical, try chopping up a tablespoon of tarragon, rubbing it in two tablespoons of sugar, and using that mixture to macerate strawberries for a strawberry shortcake. The tarragon adds soaring harmony to this otherwise one-note-wonder. Tarragon also pairs well with raspberries, apples, and pears. 

You can use tarragon to infuse whipped cream, the dairy for a custard or pastry cream, or even caramel. To infuse it into cream or dairy, bring the dairy to a simmer and then add your tarragon. Cover and allow it to infuse for two hours before straining. For a more assertive tarragon ice cream base, blanch fresh tarragon in boiling water for five seconds to neutralize enzymes and ensure the herb stays bright green. Then add the tarragon to simmering dairy and use an immersion blender to blend it into the base. Cover and infuse for two hours, then strain the dairy through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any remaining bits of tarragon.

For an easy tarragon whipped cream, chop the tarragon, then rub it into a couple of tablespoons of sugar before adding your cream and whipping the mixture up. For cakes, pies, and such, chop up the tarragon and add it to your batter or filling. When possible, taste along the way to ensure the balance is right. Depending on the variety and maturity, some tarragon will show punchier flavors than others.