What Is Contrast Makeup Theory? How to Find Your Perfect Makeup Look

Every once in a while, social media serves up a new concept that completely shakes up the way we view something. That recently happened in the beauty sphere via French makeup artist @Aliénor, who introduced us to the idea of contrast theory as it applies to our complexion and the makeup we wear. In just a matter of months, terms like “low contrast makeup” and “high contrast makeup” have become part of everyday convos. Not caught up to speed? We’re covering everything you need to know.

What Is Contrast Makeup Theory?

Contrast makeup theory examines your natural features to determine whether they are high, medium, or low contrast and then uses makeup to enhance or minimize your features, explains Natalie Dresher, celebrity makeup artist.

The idea is that everyone has either a low, medium, or high contrast, and that they can turn up or dial down that contrast with their makeup choices. Some people want to go for a more “balanced” look—which some argue is universally flattering—while others may want to lean more into their high or low contrast appearance.

“As a makeup artist and esthetician, I truly enjoy the playful nature of contrast makeup,” says Margo Copeland. “It allows me to highlight different features on my clients, whether focusing on the eyes, lips, or cheeks. This approach not only fosters creativity, but also makes the process incredibly fun and rewarding.”

• High Contrast: “A high contrast face means that your hair and eyes might be dark but your skin is light, or your skin is a deeper complexion and your hair and eyes are light,” Dresher explains. Basically, you have a strong mix of both light and dark features. 
• Low Contrast: A low contrast face is the opposite. In this case, most of your features are either light or dark so there’s little variance in contrast. 
• Medium Contrast: This is a combination of both. You have some contrast, but it isn’t extreme as a high contrast face or as subtle as a low contrast face, Copeland says. 

How to Find Your Contrast: The French makeup artist who popularized the contrast makeup theory recommends viewing a photo of yourself in grayscale. This allows you to clearly visualize your contrast, and then add or subtract as desired. 

How to Apply Contrast Makeup Theory 

Once you know your facial contrast, you can experiment with adding more variance or subtracting some via makeup. There’s really no right or wrong way to do this—it’s all about experimenting and trying new things to find looks you enjoy and that flatter your features.

“Low contrast makeup uses similar shades for a soft, natural look, while medium contrast employs complementary tones that enhance features without overwhelming,” Copeland notes. “High contrast utilizes bold differences between light and dark shades for a dramatic effect that powerfully accentuates facial features.”

Ultimately each level of contrast reflects different moods and styles, allowing for versatile expression in makeup artistry.

• Medium Contrast Makeup: For a Goldilocks approach, Drescher says to “try a neutral smokey eye with a natural lip, or a low key eye look with a ‘your lips but better’ shade. 
• Low Contrast Makeup: Keep things subtle by minimizing current contrasts or leaning into your naturally low contrasted features. Try a brown mascara or earthy eye look with a clear gloss. 
• High Contrast Makeup: “High contrast calls for bright colors, dramatic eyeliner, and bold lip shades,” Copeland says. 

The goal is to play with your current features by turning the contrast dial up or down to find what works for you. And the best part? You can always try something new tomorrow.