What to Taste Beyond Bouillabaisse in Modern Marseille

Welcoming millions of visitors annually, Marseille, in the French region of Provence, is an admired port-of-call for Mediterranean travelers — and for good reason. France’s second most-populous city may also be its oldest, yet it maintains a contemporary vibe within its urban center comprising Early Modern forts and contemporary museums, city beaches, and seaside promenades, plus grand, Neo-Byzantine church architecture within reach of colorful neighborhoods adorned with street art. There’s also a thriving dining scene, with 12 Michelin-starred restaurants among an array of other formidable eateries, making Marseille a worthwhile stop for those who appreciate having a good meal — after sipping down a classic, Provençal aperitif of Pastis, of course. 

Gateway to Gastronomy

Marseille is the southernmost gateway city of the Vallée de la Gastronomie, an appointed region of culinary heritage and vetted experiences spanning from the south of France, up through Provence and Burgundy wine country, to Dijon. Unlike mustard-forward Dijon and gourmet offal-serving Lyon, Marseille is blessed with fresh seafood, so much so that its most iconic dish, bouillabaisse — the quintessential fish and seafood stew — transcends the region and exists in the lexicon of broader French cuisine.

Bouillabaisse is offered by many restaurants in the pleasant, albeit touristy Vieux (Old) Port area — a good place to start though, about a 15-minute taxi ride from the cruise port. There are a few notable places ladling out the savory stew, including casual L’Hippocampe and upscale Une Table, au Sud — awarded one Michelin star under the helm of former French “Top Chef” competitor Ludovic Turac. Nearby is shellfish specialist Chez Roger, where it’s easy to spend an afternoon people-watching from the outdoor seating area while sharing a bottle of Provençal rosé and a platter of raw huîtres de Bouzigues — briny oysters from the Mediterranean.

Beyond Bouillabaisse

For a culinary experience that’s more than a meal, head east from the Old Port through the 1st arrondissement, and go up the colorful steps of Escaliers du Cours Julien to the trendy La Plaine neighborhood. There, the chefs of Gérarh offer their Du Marché à l’Assiette experience each Wednesday, involving a tour of the nearby market to see, smell, and feel fresh ingredients from area bakers, fishmongers, and farmers — all before they’re expertly showcased in the seasonal dishes that you enjoy afterwards with fellow locavores.

Atop Pierre Puget Hill, in a park overlooking the city from the 7th arrondissement, chef Paul Langlère mixes things up at acclaimed Sépia by serving fish with sauces usually paired with poultry and preparing meats with seafood broths. His innovative culinary sensibility can also be found in sharable tapas at the adjacent terrace bar Julis, where you can join locals enjoying cocktails and wine with views of the city.

For a scenic stroll with seaside views — followed by a rewarding meal — head to the Corniche Kennedy, which encompasses the city’s rocky coastline, sandy city beaches, and a waterside promenade where people run, bike, fish, or simply sunbathe on nearby platforms amid the rocks. At one vista, there’s local favorite Peron, where the delicate flavors of Provence come with a spectacular view of the Mediterranean. 

In the middle of the corniche lies the Vallon des Auffes, a small vintage fishing port that’s become a draw for tourists and expats for its postcard-perfect scene of colorfully painted buildings that brighten the old harbor. That draw may have spawned some eateries with standard tourist fare, but there’s one standout nearby: Chez Fonfon, a family-run institution since 1952, specializing in various Provençal dishes — although many are just drawn to the famous family bouillabaisse recipe that’s endured for over 70 years.

If you’ve tired of the French fish stew, the daily catch finds itself as fresh slices of sashimi at nearby Tabi — featured on both the Michelin Guide and Vallée de la Gastronomie lists — where Kyoto-born chef Ippei Uemura dazzles guests in his adopted French home with rotating dishes incorporating Japanese flavors fused with French flair. 

Many cultures, many cuisines

Marseille was founded by the Greeks as “Massalia” circa 600 BC, and has endured for over two millennia as an important port for the Romans, the Visigoths, and the French of the past few centuries — in fact, it’s the namesake of the familiar French national anthem, “La Marseillaise.” As a historical center of commercial trade, it’s inherently a crossroads of many international cultures — especially with communities from nearby Africa, the Middle East, and other parts of the Mediterranean — all of which meld with the traditions of the French. This diversity transcends into its culinary scene more than any other French city outside of Paris.

For your fix on Marseille’s more notable offerings beyond the Provençal kitchen, make dinner reservations at Michelin-recommended Kin, where chef Hugues Mbenda offers a seasonal set-course menu that changes every two weeks, inspired by tastes and textures of Africa — particularly Senegal and his homeland of the Democratic Republic of Congo. If you can’t get a dinner reservation, stop in for lunch; by day, the chef offers a fast-casual concept of similar cuisine, in the same space, under the alias Libala.

For Lebanese and Middle Eastern-inspired cuisine, locals love Mouné, where married couple, chef Serje Banna and Najla Chami impress diners with modern takes on classic dishes. Kibbeh, typically made with ground meat in Lebanon, is made with squash, walnuts, and pomegranate, while squid ink meets tahini in a spicy dish with zucchini noodles and cuttlefish.

At acclaimed Alivetu, which means “olive grove” in Corsican, Mediterranean cuisine is defined by its founders — Timothée Aumont from Corisca and Marie Vangelisti from Italy — with a market-driven menu combining styles and flavors inspired by both motherlands. Dishes lean either seafood-focused — think grilled octopus with flavors of fennel, black garlic, olives, saffron, and candied lemon — or terrestrial, exemplified by Iberian pork with white beans, pistachios, and arugula.

The more ships that pass through Marseille, continuing its legacy of being a melting pot of cultures, the more its culinary spectrum will broaden to new limits — far beyond the latest interpretation of bouillabaisse. The port city is fortunate to have an influx of great Provençal produce and a vast supply of fresh seafood, so there’s no doubt its food artisans will continue to make meals that you’ll remember — until you’re ready to go back again for more.