Why American Chefs Love Wild Shrimp from Charleston, South Carolina

As a person born and raised near Houston, southern seafood and good quality shrimp are both things I hold near and dear to my heart. And in spite of my attachment to the crispy, fried Gulf Coast crustaceans I grew up on, I might be willing to admit that there’s another city in the South that has access to even better shrimp: Charleston, South Carolina. 

This September 27th through the 29th, the inaugural Food & Wine Classic in Charleston will be popping up for a weekend full of delicious chef demos, wine tastings, panels, and more. Among a long list of talent is chef and owner of acclaimed Charleston seafood restaurant Chubby Fish, James London, who will be hosting a seminar titled Wild Shrimpin’ Ain’t Easy: The Journey From Catch to Cuisine.

Chef London’s restaurant features dock-to-table cuisine, and he hopes that his seminar will convey the same message that his food does, telling me that “More than anything I want to convey to attendees that there are people and families behind the shrimp on their plate. It is an extremely tough job.” London sources the shrimp for Chubby Fish from Tarvin Seafood, a local, family-owned purveyor that he says the best chefs in Charleston use.

Four types of shrimp can be caught off the Lowcountry coast: white, brown, the more rare pink, and occasionally invasive tiger shrimp. White shrimp are the most common in the area, but London notes that brown shrimp are his favorite. While it may be difficult for many people to taste the difference between the two species, some experts — the Chubby Fish chef included — prefer brown shrimp, which can have a slightly more robust flavor.

Shrimp caught off the Carolina coast are prized for their slightly sweeter flavor and plump, firm texture, a product of the crisp Atlantic waters. Different species of shrimp will have different seasons — brown shrimp become available late spring, whereas white shrimp trawling peaks in the fall — but overall the combined shrimp seasons last from roughly May to December, give or take a few weeks considering any unpredictable weather.

When speaking with chef London, the Lowcountry seafood aficionado told me that while wild-caught shrimp taste different from (and better than) farmed shrimp, storing wild shrimp in preservatives can negatively impact the shellfish’s flavor and texture. This is part of why he places so much emphasis on how the shrimp he serves are sourced, and what happens to them on the journey from ocean to table. Shrimp stored in preservatives are also more difficult to cook. London says that “If you try to sauté a ‘soaked’ shrimp it will not sear. It will simply steam in the pan and it will remain weirdly translucent inside. Fresh, preservative free shrimp should taste of the ocean with a little bit of natural sweetness.”

Next month at the Food & Wine Classic in Charleston, chef London will do a deeper dive into wild shrimping in his city. You can learn more about the people behind Tarvin Seafood who source his shrimp, and how much care goes into their seafood catches and what makes them truly special. And after you’ve heard all about Lowcountry crustaceans, you can snag some shrimp and grits in Charleston to appreciate the ingredients yourself.