How A Fish-Sauce Spiked Cocktail Conveys Cambodian Spirit

At Sophon, a Cambodian restaurant in Seattle’s Phinney Ridge neighborhood, every dish channels Khmer identity. Some, like mouthwatering braised pork belly braised in soy-coconut milk, are what chef-owner Karuna Long calls “family authentic,” while others—like karaage-inspired local mushrooms—pull inspiration from the Pacific Northwest. Sophon is an ode to Long’s mother, who escaped Cambodian genocide under the Khmer Rouge. Arising from such tragic circumstances is an abiding spirit of creativity, melding Khmai flavors and cooking methods in clever, compelling ways.

This approach is clear in the restaurant’s layered, ingenious cocktails. Ingredients like floral makrut lime leaves, sawtooth coriander simple syrup (derived from the herb common in Southeast Asian cooking), and kampot peppercorns (a warm and sweet varietal with a kick, grown and shipped from the mineral-rich soil of the Kampot region) pay direct homage to Cambodian cuisine. Bar manager Dakota Etley also creates housemade components that nod to deeper cultural connections. A brie-washed American rye hints to both Cambodia’s French colonization as well as the United States occupation during the Vietnam War. A kabocha squash tincture references the country’s agricultural past—a crop first ushered in by Portuguese traders before gaining prominence in Japan.

In cocktails like the Mekong, a spin on a piña colada, fish sauce provides an intriguing earthy pungence. Named after Southeast Asia’s longest river, this frozen wonder draws inspiration from Cambodia’s unofficial national dish of amok: fish steamed in coconut cream and fragrant kroeung spices. “The bar menu is primarily Khmer-focused,” Etley says, “but it’s also a little touch of the Pacific Northwest as well.” Here’s how the Mekong’s star ingredients come into play.

Coconut cream

Coconut cream is a must in amok. Long recalls seeing Mae Ploy in his mother’s kitchen throughout his childhood. The Thai brand offers its trademark velvety texture to the Mekong’s final form, and the can doubles as a charming drinking vessel.

Ripe and green mangoes

Photo by Meron Menghistab