Food & Drink

The FDA Just Approved Lab-Grown Salmon — Here’s Where You Can Try It First

  • Wildtype’s cell-cultivated salmon has received FDA approval, marking the first time lab-grown fish has been deemed safe to eat in the United States.
  • Kann, a critically acclaimed Haitian restaurant in Portland led by Chef Gregory Gourdet, is the first to serve Wildtype’s cultivated salmon, which is made from Pacific salmon cells and designed to be consumed raw, sashimi-style.
  • While seafood like Wildtype’s salmon is regulated solely by the FDA, lab-grown meat faces additional hurdles from the USDA, with several U.S. states —including Florida and Alabama — already banning its production and sale.

There’s a new kind of salmon to try that you won’t find in any of the world’s oceans.

In early June, Wildtype, a cell-cultivated seafood company, announced that it’s officially on the menu at Kann, a Haitian restaurant in Portland, Oregon, under the direction of chef Gregory Gourdet.

“At Kann, we take pride in the ingredients we utilize,” Gourdet shared in the announcement. “Introducing Wildtype’s cultivated salmon to our menu hits the elevated and sustainable marks we want our menu to offer guests who share a similar value system to ours.”

In reality, you may never be able to distinguish between its product and something caught in the ocean or farmed, as it’s produced using cells from Pacific salmon that are cultivated in cell environments that replicate the habitat of wild fish. The cells are then harvested and mixed with a “few plant-based ingredients to help create the flavor, texture, and appearance of conventional salmon.”

According to Wildtype, its first product, “saku,” is ideally served sashimi-style and is best consumed raw, just like any other sushi. “We made it for world-class chefs who seek out the distinct flavor and freshness of raw seafood,” it notes on its website. 

While it’s undoubtedly a significant milestone for diners, it also represents a major advancement for cell-cultivated products everywhere, as this marks the first approval of cell-cultivated fish by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

“Based on the information Wildtype has presented to the FDA, as well as other information available to the agency, we did not identify a basis for concluding that the production process as described in CCC 000005 would be expected to result in food that bears or contains any substance or microorganism that would adulterate the food,” the FDA shared in its approval letter, which, in its very government-centric speak, means they found it safe for consumption.

“We have no questions at this time regarding Wildtype’s conclusion that foods comprised of or containing cultured salmon cell material,” the agency said. 

As The Verge reported, while the FDA has exclusive authority over cell-cultivated seafood, the situation is different for cell-cultivated meat, which must also receive approval from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). 

Cell-cultivated meat has faced a seemingly steeper uphill battle for both public and governmental approval. In May 2024, Florida Governor Ron DeSantis signed legislation banning — and criminalizing — the creation and sale of lab-grown meat in the state, calling it a “global elite” plan that he must stop. As Food & Wine reported at the time, those who violate the law face a second-degree misdemeanor charge, punishable by up to 60 days in jail or a $500 fine.

“Florida is fighting back against the global elite’s plan to force the world to eat meat grown in a petri dish or bugs to achieve their authoritarian goals,” DeSantis said in a statement. “We will save our beef.” Alabama has also banned cell-cultivated meat, while Tennessee and Arizona are still attempting to follow suit. 

But for now, you can indeed enjoy that cell-cultivated salmon at Kann, and, as Wildtype explained in its statement, it will be “swimming into” four more restaurants in the months to come.




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